My alky setup

gurov · 2006-04-06 15:50:16

i normally buy the cheapest window washer fluid i can find at the gas station i'm filling up at. If i know i'll be beating up on the car quite a bit, i throw in a couple of bottle of YELLOW HEET (this is pure methanol) per 2 gallon container. I've noticed this results in a nice brownish color of the plugs after i'm done for the night.

Window washer fluid = $0.99-$2 / gal
Yellow heet/or any other gas line de-icer, it will normally be in a yellow bottle = $0.99-$1.20 per pint (i think, crazy english system)

At this time i'm using a 7gph nozzle and spraying at around 90-100 psi starting 4.5 psi using a boost switch that came with my enginerunup kit.

here are some pictures of it setup:

this is the pump in the trunk, on the right you see a coiled-up rubber hose connected to the pump via a brass T. that hose serves a very important purpose. after going to a nitrous feed line from the trunk to the engine bay, I noticed that the pump would prime itself a lot more often, as if the checkvalve inside was leaking. The rubber hose gives the pressurized contents some space to expand and smooth out the pump's impulses. I believe they call this an accumulator and they actually have more attractive pieces. I know i've seen the "water hammers" at the hardware store i go to, that should work pretty well too.

i used a -4 nitrous line to go from the pump to the engine bay. this picture shows the water pressure gauge that's broken (again, can't make them last) and a water solenoid with an oil pressure sender attached. I'm using a small autometer oil pressure gauge to monitor spraying pressure of the system when it's active. the oil pressure sender seems to be doing the job well and not quitting. it's also lasting a whole of a lot longer than any of the mechanical pressure gauges i've tried using.

here's a picture of what the water pressure gauge looked like before it broke its own hand off:

this shows the position of the injector, on the left, right before the throttle body. Inside it's actually an angled fitting that sprays directly at the throttle body plate.

this is the container i'm using in the trunk for storing the alky mix. i picked it up at some hippie store, it's meant for storing cold water in the fridge. comes with a spiggot. tap 3/8 npt into the spiggot stub and make a hosebarb fit.

this was my old setup with the 2 tanks made of PVC. i didn't really like them because they were a pain in the ass to refill.

this is the gromet that i ran the alky hose through. it's been replaced with the stainless steel braided nitrous line now.

photo of the boost switch i use for activating alky. it's the thing in the very middle of the photo. hose goes to my vacuum rail for manifold pressure reference.

gurov · 2006-04-19 13:10:48

i just added a peak and hold water pressure gauge, it's mechanical peak and hold, i got it at home depot, the cost for it was about 8-9 bucks i believe.

due to my history of destroying any water pressure gauge that goes on this system, this time i made a flow restrictor so the pump does not hit the gauge that hard when it's under load, but still reads accurate pressure over time.

SPECial Sauce · 2006-04-26 02:48:25

Always fun to look at your stuff gurov...
also nice to do it away from the flaming eyes of the Vboard.

I live just south of you. Maybe we should get together for pizza, beer, and V talk sometime. I used to live in the FC too.

DEFYF8 · 2006-04-26 11:30:04

I may have to look into a setup like this in the very near future

gurov · 2006-04-26 12:30:13

SPECial Sauce wrote:
Always fun to look at your stuff gurov...
also nice to do it away from the flaming eyes of the Vboard.

I live just south of you. Maybe we should get together for pizza, beer, and V talk sometime. I used to live in the FC too.

hmm, are you in denver or something ?

kasonb · 2006-06-07 03:43:57

i am so confused right now...how does this work?...where is it going?

gurov · 2006-06-13 15:08:53

kasonb wrote:
i am so confused right now...how does this work?...where is it going?

into the intake, right before the throttle plate

yes.
water into the engine

no, it doesn't kill it.
no, it doesn't add power.

i can run lots of boost on the motor without pulling too much timing and without blowing the whole thing to bits.

it's neat, you should read up on it.

nccentral · 2006-06-28 15:59:40

Hey gurov, do you buy washer fluid with a peticular freeze temp? I was reading that the % of methanol is based on what temp it freezes at....for example 0'F washer fluid has 23% where -50'F has 62%.

gurov · 2007-05-28 15:31:45

new pics for this:

and a bigger one:

it was cleaned up quite a bit, no more pressure gauge, they would all die within a week of being installed.

gurov · 2007-05-28 15:32:55

nccentral wrote:
Hey gurov, do you buy washer fluid with a peticular freeze temp? I was reading that the % of methanol is based on what temp it freezes at....for example 0'F washer fluid has 23% where -50'F has 62%.

i use the blue "peak" stuff, cheapest at walmart/ advanced auto/walmart

cute02spec · 2007-05-28 15:34:00

gurov wrote:
nccentral wrote:
Hey gurov, do you buy washer fluid with a peticular freeze temp? I was reading that the % of methanol is based on what temp it freezes at....for example 0'F washer fluid has 23% where -50'F has 62%.
i use the blue "peak" stuff, cheapest at walmart/ advanced auto/walmart

-20 degree stuff. That's NEGATIVE 20. Sometimes people miss the dash in there

Joker · 2007-08-12 02:24:26

dont mean to revive an old thread but im curious to why not just tap the intake manifold
i know its generrally the same idea but varing on where you tap the manifold the engine bay would have less clutter

Beow · 2007-08-14 12:58:14

Joker wrote:
dont mean to revive an old thread but im curious to why not just tap the intake manifold
i know its generrally the same idea but varing on where you tap the manifold the engine bay would have less clutter

if you tap the intake mani you will need to have direct port to ensure the same amount gets into each cyl.

gurov actually tried direct port alky but it had some problems.

shooting further down the intake pipe, the water/meth mixture has more time to cool the intake charge.

some people inject it right after their IC. those that dont have MAFS

RniceSpecV · 2008-02-29 10:58:32

pics dont work....and i thinkin on useing just distilled water only @12psi...i know u can use meth for higher power but dont think the connecting rods can handle it when useing higher boost and dont you blow out your MAF over 12psi?

Last edited by RniceSpecV (2008-02-29 11:22:47)

darsondriss · 2008-02-29 13:43:03

pimpsmurf wrote:
12 psi is high power for our engine, and meth is safer than water. it cools more as it evaporates, and it evaps faster I believe.

water cools more... its got a higher specific heat. But it would evap faster.

cute02spec · 2008-03-02 19:27:30

RniceSpecV wrote:
pics dont work....and i thinkin on useing just distilled water only @12psi...i know u can use meth for higher power but dont think the connecting rods can handle it when useing higher boost and dont you blow out your MAF over 12psi?

gurov sprays more meth than you can believe... and runs 14psi just fine with the maf... and the connecting rods are just fine.

Black04SpecV · 2008-03-02 20:35:09

cute02spec wrote:
gurov sprays more meth than you can believe... and runs 14psi just fine with the maf... and the connecting rods are just fine.

I wonder for how long they will be fine... I have seen the QR rods in person and those things are pretty thin, compared to stock SR20DE rods... Thats another reason why I'm not considering running more than 8-9psi. Maybe 11-12psi with meth, but thats pushing it I think.

cute02spec · 2008-03-02 21:04:01

Black04SpecV wrote:
cute02spec wrote:
gurov sprays more meth than you can believe... and runs 14psi just fine with the maf... and the connecting rods are just fine.
I wonder for how long they will be fine... I have seen the QR rods in person and those things are pretty thin, compared to stock SR20DE rods... Thats another reason why I'm not considering running more than 8-9psi. Maybe 11-12psi with meth, but thats pushing it I think.

well... he has 55000 miles on his car with the turbo (95000 overall) and daily drove the car for years with well over 10psi... about the last year of that having 12psi daily. we took the car all over the country without a hitch. and i know not too many people have seen gurov drive, but he's not very nice to his car. hell, he was pushing 17-18psi at high elevations when racing... i know he's seen 15psi before at the track at sea level. seems to be holding up... and he'll just keep upping the boost as long as he can. of course there's an upper limit, but it surely wasn't 12psi, at least with his car.

either way, his rods have seen 55000 miles of boost...

i just think it's weird how in the past few months there's been a huge revival of "you can't run more than 10psi without blowing up your engine"... because for awhile that went away and it was kinda nice... and now everyone is like "oh noes, 8psi, holy shit my shit is going to blow up!" guess it's because it's all the new folk coming in with their turbos... no offense but... it's just my observation.

cute02spec · 2008-03-02 21:09:56

pimpsmurf wrote:
cute: what psi should I run before I put on a blockguard for safety?

-JNY

0psi.

i am not putting mine in until the headgasket goes or i build, whichever one comes first. less work ftw.

oh, and his gallery is not broken btw. he just took all his pics down.

darsondriss · 2008-03-02 21:11:20

pimpsmurf wrote:
cute: what psi should I run before I put on a blockguard for safety?

-JNY

no more than 8.567468 psi. it depends on how good your tune is theres no magic number....

cute02spec · 2008-03-02 21:12:55

darsondriss wrote:
pimpsmurf wrote:
cute: what psi should I run before I put on a blockguard for safety?

-JNY
no more than 8.567468 psi. it depends on how good your tune is theres no magic number....

EXACTLY darson!

every car is different. people have run 10psi on a stock clutch just fine, and others have blown it up at 6psi, for an example. every car, depending on mileage, prior abuse, the owner, and probably luck, is different when it comes to boost or any mods in general. some cars respond good or better, some don't, and some explode.

Black04SpecV · 2008-03-02 21:14:44

cute02spec wrote:
Black04SpecV wrote:
cute02spec wrote:
gurov sprays more meth than you can believe... and runs 14psi just fine with the maf... and the connecting rods are just fine.
I wonder for how long they will be fine... I have seen the QR rods in person and those things are pretty thin, compared to stock SR20DE rods... Thats another reason why I'm not considering running more than 8-9psi. Maybe 11-12psi with meth, but thats pushing it I think.
well... he has 55000 miles on his car with the turbo (95000 overall) and daily drove the car for years with well over 10psi... about the last year of that having 12psi daily. we took the car all over the country without a hitch. and i know not too many people have seen gurov drive, but he's not very nice to his car. hell, he was pushing 17-18psi at high elevations when racing... i know he's seen 15psi before at the track at sea level. seems to be holding up... and he'll just keep upping the boost as long as he can. of course there's an upper limit, but it surely wasn't 12psi, at least with his car.

either way, his rods have seen 55000 miles of boost...

i just think it's weird how in the past few months there's been a huge revival of "you can't run more than 10psi without blowing up your engine"... because for awhile that went away and it was kinda nice... and now everyone is like "oh noes, 8psi, holy shit my shit is going to blow up!" guess it's because it's all the new folk coming in with their turbos... no offense but... it's just my observation.

I just don't have spare longblock laying around so I want to be carefull. Thats all.

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gurov wrote:

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darsondriss wrote:

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Re: My alky setup

cute02spec wrote:

Black04SpecV wrote:

cute02spec wrote: