(courtesy of sr20de_man, edited to fit the needs of the QR25 community specifically)

WHEELS

Wheel offset: The lower the number, the farther the wheel sticks out of the wheel well. The higher the number, the farther the wheel goes into the wheel well. Try to stay within 40 to 47mm as far as offsets go.

Bolt pattern: B15 Sentra cars use a 4x114.3 mm (4x4.5") bolt pattern.

Hub center bore (P.C.D.): B15 Sentra cars use a 66.1 mm hub center bore. Any wheel that you buy, MUST have at least a 66.1 mm or higher hub center bore. Anything larger than 66.1 will require a hub centric ring.

Hub centric ring: They center out the wheels properly. Some wheels are lug centric, which means that the lugs center out the wheels as they tighten up

Brembo equipped SPEC V owners: You guys got the short end of the stick. Not only does the aftermarket suck for a 4x114.3 bolt pattern wheel, but having big brakes makes it even worse. It's not the offset that you're looking for. You need a wheels that have some well designed spokes to clear the brakes.

http://myspecv.com/f/t1831-wheels-that- … embos.html

^ Go there to see what fits your car. As far as center bore, offset, & everything else, all B15 Sentra cars are the same.

TIRES

Ah yes! Now for the tire talk.

As a reference, shorter tires will rack up miles quicker on your odometer, but will increase acceleration. Taller tires save mileage on the odometer, but you lose acceleration slightly. If you stay close to the stock sizes, the difference is almost unnoticeable.

Good bang for the buck tires:

Falken Azenis Sport RT-215
(Summer. Good for dry tarmac. Wears quickly.)

Falken Azenis Sport RT-615
(Summer. Good for dry tarmac. Currently there's only one lousy 16" size though. Wears quickly.)

Falken GRB FK-451
(Summer. Good for dry & wet tarmac. Wears decently.)

Falken Ziex ZE-512
(All-weather. Good for wet & dry tarmac. Not really meant for serious driving. Wears good.)

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3
(Summer. Good for dry or wet tarmac. Wears decently.)

Hankook Ventus Sport K104
(Summer. Good for dry or wet tarmac. Wears decently.)

Hankook Ventus R-S2 Z212 PICTURE
(Maximum Performance Summer. Falken Azenis fighter! Maximum dry grip with decent water evacuation. Wears out quickly.)

Kumho Ecsta ASX
(All weather. Good for wet & dry tarmac. Not really meant for serious driving. Wears good.)

Kumho Ecsta MX
(Summer. Good for dry tarmac. Wears quickly.)

Kumho Ecsta SPT
(Summer. Good for dry tarmac. Wears good.)

Kumho Excta Supra 712
(Summer. Good for dry & wet tarmac. Wears decently.)

Sumitomo HTRZII
(Summer. Good for dry or wet tarmac. A lot of drag racers like this tire. Wears decently.)

Yokohama AVS ES100
(Summer. Good for dry or wet tarmac. Wears decently.)

If you’re a handling junkie, you want a tire that has good grip & a stiff sidewall that doesn’t allow flexing.

If you’re a drag racer, you want a tire with good grip & a soft sidewall that will flex.

If you do not push your tires to the limit (i.e. autocrossing, road racing, canyon running, drag racing), any cheap tire will do for you. Another thing to remember is that you have to sacrifice one thing for another. There's no such thing as an ultra sticky, long lasting tire that performs well in the dry, snow, & rain. It ain't gonna happen. Sticky summer tires wear out quickly & usually don't do too well in the wet & you can forget about snow. All weather tires will last longer at the cost of losing a lot of dry grip, so if you plan on autocrossing, road racing, or doing any other spirited type of driving, you can forget about it, unless you had planned on sliding everywhere.

Ah yes!! Almost forgot one important thing: how to read a tire size.

215/45ZR17

OK! Using this as an example, the first number is the width of the tread. It’s 215mm wide. The next number after the slash is the height of the tire. You will get 45% from the 215mm width of the tire. So the height of the tire is 96.75mm tall. The letter after the 45 is the speed rating.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...eral/speed.jsp

^ Go there to find out about the speed ratings & what they mean. The last number after the R is the size of the rim that it will go on. The 17 means that it goes on a 17” wheel.

One final thing. There is a tread width & a section width. The section width goes from sidewall to sidewall. You will notice that a 205/55-16 tire has about the same section width as a 215/45-17 tire (8.4”), but the tread width is thinner on the 205 & slightly wider on the 215. A 225/50-16 tire as a 9.2” section width & a 225/45-17 tire has an 8.9” section width, although both of them have the same tread width. The taller sidewall on the 16” tire causes the sidewall to flex out a bit. You have to keep the section widths in mind. These could get pretty wide & cause rubbing issues at full lock u-turns or on lowered cars in the rear.

I almost forgot! Tire pressure makes a huge difference in tire wear & gas mileage, so check your tire pressure!

THE FITMENTS

OK! Here’s the deal.

http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp?postId=906

^ The ultimate site for wheel & tire info that calculates offsets, backspacing, tire sizes & a hell of a lot more!! (^o^ ) <3

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

^ I used this tire calculator to get the most appropriate tire size for your car.

http://gs.tolan-hoechst.com/tirecalc.htm

^ That will do wheel & tire sizes, offsets, & whatever else you can think of.

The following sizes are recommended to keep the speedometers & odometers at least 95% accurate. They're also sizes that can for the most part fit inside the wheel wells without much rubbing issues. If you lower the car too much, keep in mind that you might experience rubbing with some of the wider tires. Most of the rubbing will be in the rear fenders & some inside the front wheel well at full lock u-turns. If you decide to use any other wheel & tire sizes, you're going to have to do some further research on your own.

This is what I'm talking about when I refer to full lock u-turns & rubbing issues.



^ Yes. I'm partial to 16" wheels.

* NOTE: When it says 60 MPH = 59.9 or less, you will be racking up miles on your odemeter & you'll be traveling slower than you actually are. When it says 60 MPH = 60.1 MPH or more, you will be saving miles on your odometer & you'll be traveling faster than you actually are.

Now the QR25DE cars! They came with 2 wheel & tire sizes:

16” X 6” with a 45 mm offset
195/55-16 (The worst size ever. You can fit 205/50-16, shorter, or 205/55-16, taller, on stock wheels.)

17” X 7” with a 47mm offset
215/45-17 (You can also fit 205/45-17, shorter, or 225/45-17, taller, on the stock wheels.)

Recommended wheel & tire sizes for the 195/55-16 tire sized QR25DE cars:

Don’t bother with a 15” wheel unless you know what you’re doing because you autocross, road race, or drag.

16” X 7” (40 to 45mm offset)
16” X 7.5” (40 to 45mm offset)
195/55-16 (Stock.)
205/50-16 (Slightly shorter than stock. 60 MPH = 59.1 MPH)
205/55-16 (Way taller than stock. 60 MPH = 61.1 MPH)
215/50-16 (Perfect match. Not enough tire choices. 60 MPH = 60 MPH)
225/45-16 (Way shorter than stock. 60 MPH = 58.8 MPH)
225/50-16 (Way taller than stock. Might rub inside at full lock u-turn & you might need to roll the rear fenders. 60 MPH = 61 MPH)

17” X 7” (40 to 47mm offset)
17” X 7.5” (45 to 47 offset)
205/45-17 (Slightly shorter than stock. 60 MPH = 59.6 MPH)
215/45-17 (Slightly taller than stock. 60 MPH = 60.4 MPH)
225/45-17 (Way taller than stock. 60 MPH = 61.3 MPH)

18” X 7” (40 to 47mm offset)
18” X 7.5” (45 to 47mm offset)
205/40-18 (Perfect match. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 60 MPH)

215/40-18 (Slightly taller than stock. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 60.8 MPH)
225/35-18 (Slightly shorter than stock. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 59.4 MPH)
225/40-18 (Way taller than stock. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 61.6 MPH)

Recommended wheel & tire sizes for the 215/45-17 tire sized QR25DE cars:

Don’t bother with a 15” wheel unless you know what you’re doing because you autocross, road race, or drag.

16” X 7” (40 to 47 mm offset)
16” X 7.5” (45 to 47 mm offset)
205/55-16 (Slightly taller than stock. 60 MPH = 60.6 MPH)
215/50-16 (Slightly shorter than stock. Not too many tire choices. 60 MPH = 59.6 MPH)
225/45-16 (Way shorter than stock. 60 MPH = 58.4 MPH)
225/50-16 (Slightly taller than stock. Might rub at full lock u-turn & you might need to roll the rear fenders. 60 MPH = 60.6 MPH)

17” X 7” (40 to 47 mm offset)
17” X 7.5” (45 to 47 mm offset)

215/45-17 (Stock.)
205/50-17 (Way taller than stock. 60 MPH = 61.1 MPH.)
225/45-17 (Slightly taller than stock. 60 MPH = 60.9 MPH)

18” X 7”
18” X 7.5” (45 to 47mm offset)
205/40-18 (Slightly shorter than stock. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 59.6 MPH)
215/40-18 (Slightly taller than stock. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 60.4 MPH)
225/35-18 (Slightly shorter than stock. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 59 MPH
225/40-18 (Way taller than stock. Tires look like rubber bands on wheels. Potholes kill wheels. 60 MPH = 61.1 MPH)

Any other sizes will thow off odometer readings by huge leaps. 18" wheels are not a good idea to run, but you can run them. As far as 19" wheels go, it's really not a good idea, but you can run them. Some 19" X 7" or 7.5" wheels with a 40 to 45mm offset and 215/35-19 tires would be the smallest to run. Now, if you do decide to run this size, you are asking for trouble. This is dangerous for the street because if you step on a crack, you will most likely bend the wheels. 20" wheels are even worse.

Here’s a list of online wheel & tire shops:

www.discounttiredirect.com

www.jlbmotorsports.com

www.tirerack.com

www.onlinetires.com

www.machiii.net

www.treadepot.com

www.edgeracing.com

www.whalentire.com

www.wheelsboutique.com

www.wheelmax.com

www.vulcantire.com

www.gruppe-s.com

www.importhookup.com

Keep all these things in mind & you’ll be good to go.

Happy driving!