








(write up courtesy of dangling fury/b15sentra.net)
dangling fury wrote:
If you are interested in dropping your car with lowering springs, at least know what your stock rates are, and those of the aftermarket product you are looking to get. Spring rates measure how "stiff" the springs are, measured in lbs/inch. Drop is how much lower your car will be compared to stock ride height.
The chart below was posted by chickracer over 2 years ago and shows the stock b15 spring rates. To the best of my knowledge, the 1.8s still uses the same rates as the GXE, and I don't think the SE-R or SpecV rates have changed for '04 or '05.
Here are the spring rates and (drop) of the most popular aftermarket lowering springs. Understand that you really don't want to drop too much, and the rates should be higher than stock to compensate for less wheel travel:
180F/300R (1.2"F/1.0"R) Eibach Pro-Kit (gen2 #6362.140)
200F/333R (1.6"F/1.6"R) Eibach Sportline (gen2 #EIB4.6263)
168F/258R (1.3"F/1.1"R) Tanabe NF210
174F/258R (1.8"F/1.8"R) Tanabe DF210
207F/314R (1.3"F/1.1"R) Tanabe GF210
170F/270R (1.3"F/1.1"R) Tein S-Tech
154F/246R (0.9"F/0.6"R) Tein H-Tech
190F/240R (1.7"F/1.5"R) Progress (Intrax)
172F/274R (1.6"F/1.6"R) Vogtland
280F/230R (2.0"F/2.0"R) Megan Racing
150F/190R (2.0"F/2.0"R) Sprint
???F/???R (1.5"F/1.5"R) B&G
???F/???R (1.5"F/1.4"R) H&R
I would stay away from Sprint because the drop is too low and rates too soft. Also, you really should know the rates of the lowering spring you are putting on your car, not knowing the spring rate is like not knowing the width of a tire. You need to know the rates to setup the suspension properly! All of the other springs seem to have mostly positive reviews from what I've seen on this board. I can personally attest to the Eibach Prokits, I think they are a great balance between drop and rates.
Also, here are the numbers for the Ground Control coilover sleeves, don't bother using these on stock dampers, the rates are too high. Use with Koni Sport for best results.
375F/300R (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) Ground Control (interchangable front and back)
Complete Coilover Systems
Nismo S-tune Kit
Spring Rates: 185F/300R (progressive, meaning this is just the MAX rate)
Swappable Springs: NO
Ride Height Adjust: NO (fixed at 1.0"F/0.6"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: NO
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES
Install Difficulty: LOW (pops right into car)
Street Price: $800
Tein Basic
Spring Rates: 336F/336R (linear)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (1.0"-2.4"F/0.5"-2.3"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: NO
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: MEDIUM (reuse stock upper mounts)
Street Price: $800
Koni/Eibach Prokit
Spring Rates: 180F/300R (progressive)
Swappable Springs: YES (use any lowering spring)
Ride Height Adjust: NO (fixed at 1.2"F/1.0"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (no notches, ~2 full turns from soft to stiff)
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: HIGH (reuse stock upper mounts and front strut housing)
Street Price: $700
Koni/Ground Control
Spring Rates: 375F/300R (linear)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 25 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (no notches, ~2 full turns from soft to stiff)
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: HIGH (reuse stock upper mounts and front strut housing)
Street Price: $850
Tein SS
Spring Rates: 336F/280R (linear, some use 392R)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (1.0"-2.4"F/0.8"-2.3"R)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (16 way, 32 with EDFC)
Upper Mounts Incl?: NO
Install Difficulty: MEDIUM (reuse stock upper mounts)
Street Price: $1100
KSport
Spring Rates: 392F/280R (linear)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) (can adjust overall damper length)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Hydraulic
Damper Adjustment: YES (36 way)
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES
Install Difficulty: LOW
Street Price: $850
JIC FLT-A1
Spring Rates: 392F/280R (linear, several use 336R)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) (can adjust overall damper length)
Damper Type: Twin Tube Nitrogen Gas
Damper Adjustment: YES (5 way)
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES (pillowball w/front camber adjustment)
Install Difficulty: LOW
Street Price: $1150
JIC FLT-A2
Spring Rates: 392F/280R (linear, several use 336R)
Swappable Springs: YES (+/- 56 ft/lbs)
Ride Height Adjust: YES (~1.0"-2.5"F/~0.5"-2.5"R) (can adjust overall damper length)
Damper Type: Mono Tube Nitrogen Gas
Damper Adjustment: YES (15 way)
Upper Mounts Incl?: YES (pillowball w/front camber adjustment)
Install Difficulty: LOW
Street Price: $1750
One quick note: Stay away from B&G coilovers. Just ask David, I believe his exact quote was "overall they were the worst things I have bought for my car and I wish I could get my money back".
Lowering your car
When it comes to lowering your car, you either do it the right way, meaning using quality parts and making sure you install them correctly, or you don't do it at all. As a general rule, no aftermarket spring alone is really designed to work well with stock shock absorbers (or dampers) over an extended period of time. Dampers are a wearable part like brake pads and tires...eventually you have to switch them out after using them with stock springs anyway. The design of our suspension does not allow a lot of drop on stock dampers, and even modest lowering will cause premature wear. How soon your dampers go depends on things like what springs you use, but also your driving style or what the road surfaces are like in your area.
The main reason stock dampers should not be paired with almost all lowering springs is wheel travel. Anytime you drop your b15 on stock dampers you will lose wheel travel and bottom out more often. A really bad example is using 2" lowering springs with stock dampers. Because the stock dampers are too long for the shorter springs, the car at rest has the shock piston almost completely compressed...to the point where you can't even push down on the car because there is no shock travel. Not only will this kill your dampers in no time, it may also cause damage to other suspension components.
It is popular to only use lowering springs because it's cheap and looks so damn good. But you cannot escape the fact that our factory shock absorbers are tuned by Nissan engineers to work specifically with the factory springs, switch only one piece out, and the car just won't work right after a while. It's like using tires that are way too small for your rims, technically they may fit, but you might damage the rims and other suspension pieces and experience ride quality issues.
Here's what Koni has to say about this: "KONIs are designed to fit standard height cars and can work with lowered cars as long as they don't bottom out internally and become damaged. Unlike some shocks, KONIs ARE NOT POSITION SENSITIVE SO THEY WILL WORK PROPERLY ANYWHERE IN THEIR STROKE RANGE PROVIDING THEY ARE NOT BOTTOMING OR TOPPING OUT. Different vehicle suspension designs have different stroke travels..."
Having owned a set of Konis for four years now, I can tell you that they much stronger than the factory struts. Despite this, they did bottom out with Eibach Prokit springs which offer one of the most conservative drops on the market. This point highlights the fact that our cars have very little shock travel to begin with.
So now imagine what any lowering spring will do to the factory struts. Get the point?
Which product should I get?
Save up your money and definitely get a coilover system like Nismo S-tune or Tein Basic. They are ideal suspension setups, because the dampers and springs are matched to each other by engineers to give you the best balance between performance, ride quality and durability.
Using Koni Sport "Yellows" (which have stronger adjustable internal valving versus factory) to Ground Control sleeves is another route that has proven fairly popular for a number of users on this board. Once installed CORRECTLY (shortening the front konis, possibly relocating the front spring perch, choosing the right length and rate ERS springs, using the correct GC top hats, replacing plastic thrust bearings with metal b13 ones, revalving the konis to match the spring rates, adding external adjustability in the rear, etc.) the Koni/GC setup is arguably the BEST performance setup for the B15 Sentra.
If you want a VERY LOW drop, like 2" and still have decent ride quality, get the Tein Basic, you won't regret it. It is infinitely better than using lowering springs. If you want a slight drop, better performance, a quality ride, and an extremely easy install get the Nismo S-tune. For under $1000, these are the only two products I would personally put on my car.

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline
phil belveal



thanks for the good info my next investment for my car was going to be tein SS coil overs now i know what to but and how to set them up thanks




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michael


damn...i got the sprints 
Last edited by mikeeonfiya (2007-03-12 03:51:50)

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Robert

Awesome write up!
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Carlos


missing skunk2 springs, theyre not the stiffest thing out there but they ride nice not too stiff not too stuff, maybe a tad stiffer than stock and a nice reasonable drop i think its 1.6f and 1.3r or somethin
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does anyone have a similar chart for aftermarket Shocks?

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Jeff




theres only 2. koni yellow inserts which reuse stock housing AND kyb gr-2 which are oem replacements.
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yeah saw the Koni's they are expensive, they also have monroe shock avalible, the reason I was wondering is because I've got Megan Racing Lowering Springs they make the car ride stiff as all hell, I need new shocks to compensate for the stiffer springs, I was wondering what the spring rates were so find a set that would better match the new springs.

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anyone able to tell me what the stock ride height is? measured to the WW or the side sill... I just bought my spec and it looks like it's been lowered but how much i do not know. also how are the different after market springs identified? the ride is great...
I don't have access to a measurement device at this time but.. i can only get one finger between the top of front tire and ww. and the rear tire is flush with the top of ww.
Last edited by crit specV (2007-09-13 13:05:50)
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Shawn

Wow, that's not much room. I've had mine about 7 weeks, and I'm in the same boat. Mine is lowered (don't know how much), but isn't as bad as yours appears to be. The guy also out on fatter tires, and a NISMO CAI.
Next week, I'm going to get it on a lift and see what else he had done.
And man! You're right, the ride is great lowered and fatter tires. 
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Ralph


I know I have asked a million questions about this but this chart takes me to hopefully my last question b4 I lower my car. For my car it says 134F/212R and since I don't have a clue about none of that stuff I need someone with knowledge to let me know if I'm making a mistake by buying the Tein S-Tech 170F/270R or should I just go with the Tein H-Tech 154F/246R?
Last edited by wheelieman1 (2007-09-14 15:55:07)
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Patrick


wheelieman1 wrote:
I know I have asked a million questions about this but this chart takes me to hopefully my last question b4 I lower my car. For my car it says 134F/212R and since I don't have a clue about none of that stuff I need someone with knowledge to let me know if I'm making a mistake by buying the Tein S-Tech 170F/270R or should I just go with the Tein H-Tech 154F/246R?
Well, think of it this way- stock, you are at 134F and 212R. Now, if you go to the H-Techs you don't lower by very much, but your spring rates increase by approximately 15%. The S-Techs lower more, but the rates are higher- 30-ish percent.
You have to understand that Nissan hates us. THey built a car with little suspension travel to begin with. When you run out of travelm you hit the bumpstops, and that can do several things. First, it will kill your struts, and second, it will kill the predictability of your handling (dangerous).
With any spring-and-strut setup you loose travel. With the S tech, you loose more than the h-tech, btu the increased spring rates mean that it will take more force to cause compression in the first place.
What you really want is a drop that is as moderate as can be while increasing spring rates as much as possible. hence, the popularity of the ProKit. Look at how mild the drop is but how much the spring rates go up.
I don't know what your budget is or what your plans are as far as struts, but that does play a role as well.
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Ralph


phenryiv1 wrote:
wheelieman1 wrote:
I know I have asked a million questions about this but this chart takes me to hopefully my last question b4 I lower my car. For my car it says 134F/212R and since I don't have a clue about none of that stuff I need someone with knowledge to let me know if I'm making a mistake by buying the Tein S-Tech 170F/270R or should I just go with the Tein H-Tech 154F/246R?
Well, think of it this way- stock, you are at 134F and 212R. Now, if you go to the H-Techs you don't lower by very much, but your spring rates increase by approximately 15%. The S-Techs lower more, but the rates are higher- 30-ish percent.
You have to understand that Nissan hates us. THey built a car with little suspension travel to begin with. When you run out of travelm you hit the bumpstops, and that can do several things. First, it will kill your struts, and second, it will kill the predictability of your handling (dangerous).
With any spring-and-strut setup you loose travel. With the S tech, you loose more than the h-tech, btu the increased spring rates mean that it will take more force to cause compression in the first place.
What you really want is a drop that is as moderate as can be while increasing spring rates as much as possible. hence, the popularity of the ProKit. Look at how mild the drop is but how much the spring rates go up.
I don't know what your budget is or what your plans are as far as struts, but that does play a role as well.
What is the drop rate on the ProKit and who makes them? I have a bodykit and 18's so I have to be careful on how much I drop it.
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LAWLZ it's only Viet!



Awesome write up!


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Patrick


wheelieman1 wrote:
phenryiv1 wrote:
wheelieman1 wrote:
I know I have asked a million questions about this but this chart takes me to hopefully my last question b4 I lower my car. For my car it says 134F/212R and since I don't have a clue about none of that stuff I need someone with knowledge to let me know if I'm making a mistake by buying the Tein S-Tech 170F/270R or should I just go with the Tein H-Tech 154F/246R?
Well, think of it this way- stock, you are at 134F and 212R. Now, if you go to the H-Techs you don't lower by very much, but your spring rates increase by approximately 15%. The S-Techs lower more, but the rates are higher- 30-ish percent.
You have to understand that Nissan hates us. THey built a car with little suspension travel to begin with. When you run out of travelm you hit the bumpstops, and that can do several things. First, it will kill your struts, and second, it will kill the predictability of your handling (dangerous).
With any spring-and-strut setup you loose travel. With the S tech, you loose more than the h-tech, btu the increased spring rates mean that it will take more force to cause compression in the first place.
What you really want is a drop that is as moderate as can be while increasing spring rates as much as possible. hence, the popularity of the ProKit. Look at how mild the drop is but how much the spring rates go up.
I don't know what your budget is or what your plans are as far as struts, but that does play a role as well.What is the drop rate on the ProKit and who makes them? I have a bodykit and 18's so I have to be careful on how much I drop it.
Eibach makes them.
180F/300R (1.2"F/1.0"R) Eibach Pro-Kit (gen2 #6362.140)
Do you plan to swap out the struts at the same time? Will you be doing this yourself, or paying a shop to do it? What is your budget?
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Well, I had the front tire off doing the CAI mod and looked at the springs they say Eibach 6263.001 on them I looked this up and I believe that they are part of the pro kit. that would mean I have the 1.2" / 1" drop kit. it also has the KYB's as well.
I also noticed a small bump out in the plastic inner fender well that has been rubbed so with those 18's it will be close...
I am running stock tire size 215/45 R17's.
Last edited by crit specV (2007-09-15 17:00:18)
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Ralph


Eibach makes them.
180F/300R (1.2"F/1.0"R) Eibach Pro-Kit (gen2 #6362.140)
Do you plan to swap out the struts at the same time? Will you be doing this yourself, or paying a shop to do it? What is your budget?
I do plan on changing the struts and possibly my camber arms. I am mechanically challeged so I would be paying to get the work done.
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Patrick


wheelieman1 wrote:
Eibach makes them.
180F/300R (1.2"F/1.0"R) Eibach Pro-Kit (gen2 #6362.140)
Do you plan to swap out the struts at the same time? Will you be doing this yourself, or paying a shop to do it? What is your budget?I do plan on changing the struts and possibly my camber arms. I am mechanically challeged so I would be paying to get the work done.
Make a call out to locals and see if someone can help you out. You will save a few hundred bucks, and it only takes a couple of hours.
Also, if you DO pay someone to do it, be sure to do the struts at the same time or you will just have to pay them in a few months to do the whole thing again, since your struts will die.
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Shawn

phenryiv1 wrote:
You have to understand that Nissan hates us. THey built a car with little suspension travel to begin with. When you run out of travelm you hit the bumpstops, and that can do several things. First, it will kill your struts, and second, it will kill the predictability of your handling (dangerous).
With any spring-and-strut setup you loose travel. With the S tech, you loose more than the h-tech, btu the increased spring rates mean that it will take more force to cause compression in the first place.
What you really want is a drop that is as moderate as can be while increasing spring rates as much as possible. hence, the popularity of the ProKit. Look at how mild the drop is but how much the spring rates go up.
I don't know what your budget is or what your plans are as far as struts, but that does play a role as well.
Do you have any recommendations on going back up to a stock height? I am finding that my car is a little too low (bought it used).
Should I troll the boards looking for someone's pull-offs with 30-50K on them, or am I better off going for quality after-market replacement?
Luckily I have a friend who has an alignment shop so he has had it up on the rack and there's nothing wrong with what I have (Tanabe DF210 springs, don't know about the struts) it's just too low for my driving style and the roads I drive on.
He's in the Audi world usually, but recommends Koni's and Bilstein's as good brands in general. But he's got no experience with Nissans. I've had someone recommend Koni's on this board as well.
Thanks
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Patrick


ShawnM wrote:
phenryiv1 wrote:
You have to understand that Nissan hates us. THey built a car with little suspension travel to begin with. When you run out of travelm you hit the bumpstops, and that can do several things. First, it will kill your struts, and second, it will kill the predictability of your handling (dangerous).
With any spring-and-strut setup you loose travel. With the S tech, you loose more than the h-tech, btu the increased spring rates mean that it will take more force to cause compression in the first place.
What you really want is a drop that is as moderate as can be while increasing spring rates as much as possible. hence, the popularity of the ProKit. Look at how mild the drop is but how much the spring rates go up.
I don't know what your budget is or what your plans are as far as struts, but that does play a role as well.Do you have any recommendations on going back up to a stock height? I am finding that my car is a little too low (bought it used).
Should I troll the boards looking for someone's pull-offs with 30-50K on them, or am I better off going for quality after-market replacement?
Luckily I have a friend who has an alignment shop so he has had it up on the rack and there's nothing wrong with what I have (Tanabe DF210 springs, don't know about the struts) it's just too low for my driving style and the roads I drive on.
He's in the Audi world usually, but recommends Koni's and Bilstein's as good brands in general. But he's got no experience with Nissans. I've had someone recommend Koni's on this board as well.
Thanks
Eibach Pro Kit is the best option for off-the-shelf springs. Stock SpecV springs actually handle well, they just look a bit on the high side.
If you go back to stock in the springs, you might try Konis or KYBs for struts. What struts are on there now?
I run Konis on the Nismo S-tune springs.
Last edited by phenryiv1 (2007-09-27 13:18:32)
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Shawn

phenryiv1 wrote:
ShawnM wrote:
Luckily I have a friend who has an alignment shop so he has had it up on the rack and there's nothing wrong with what I have (Tanabe DF210 springs, don't know about the struts) it's just too low for my driving style and the roads I drive on.
He's in the Audi world usually, but recommends Koni's and Bilstein's as good brands in general. But he's got no experience with Nissans. I've had someone recommend Koni's on this board as well.
ThanksEibach Pro Kit is the best option for off-the-shelf springs. Stock SpecV springs actually handle well, they just look a bit on the high side.
If you go back to stock in the springs, you might try Konis or KYBs for struts. What struts are on there now?
I run Konis on the Nismo S-tune springs.
OK, I have finally had the chance to work on the car. It had (and I stress HAD) the Tanabe df210 springs, all around and the struts and shocks were stock.
Yesterday I had the pleasure of taking off the lowered springs and old struts/shocks and replaced them with new stock ones. And I already like the ride better.
It definitely does not have the same responsiveness and feel when taking corners hard, but I am no longer bottoming out when I hid a dip in the road at speed.
The springs that I took off look good, so I'll definitely clean them up and see if anyone will take 'em off my hands.
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Anton


I have a question for who ever is willing to answer it:
I just bought Tein H springs which lower the car about an inch in the front and half an inch in the back
I understand that i need different shocks for that, but i don't have the funds for fancy shocks.
Can someone please link me to a good website (either its ebay or anything else) which have good shocks for my b15 02 Spec V
(also, does anyone know if the springs that were sent to me are the correct ones without installing them first?)
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Does anyone have any info on the NEX Coilovers? i found some here.. at prostreetonline.com for $796..
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Mike
i dont think you need sport struts/shocks for -1'' front and less then that in the back?? I have about -1.25 in the front and -1 atleast in back and my shocks are fine. No bottoming out out etc..

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Alex



doesn't matter if it's -.5" or -2"... the lowering springs have different spring rates than the stock struts are calibrated for.

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Fabian


got this from a rep.
Thank you for contacting the Helpdesk at Skunk2 Racing.
Spring rate on the 519-07-1910 is as follows:
Front: Tender - 149 lb/in, Main - 149 lb/in.
Rear: Tender - 119 lb/in, Main - 264 lb/in.
The tender rate is the soft rate you will experience under normal driving conditions. The main rate is the stiffer rate you will experience when you lean on the springs during more aggressive driving.
If you have any more questions regarding Skunk2 products or policy please let us know.
Brian Nichols
Customer Service
Skunk2 Racing
2050 5th St.
Norco, Ca
didn't see it in the list, and I was wondering what the rates were, so I asked. maybe it can go in the list of springs available.
he said tender!


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I dont know much about this stuff yet, but I just want to buy the lowering springs.
I have an 02 se-r (not spec) and I figured I can get the Eibach Sportline springs or the megans.
Would that be good? The only thing I changed there was that I did the KYB shocks and struts.
I have 18s on my car now but I want to switch to the 16s during the winter.
Last edited by skatingdisaster (2008-09-29 09:38:36)
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Brandon

just wondering why the nismo lowering kit is under the coilover section when its not a coilover?

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Garrett

Gotta quick question guys. What do you guys think of the Nismo S tune package for a suspension for a 06 Spec V. The reason why i ask, cause many of the people that I've talked to talks about Tein. So any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys!!!
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Patrick


Kez 06<SpecV> wrote:
Gotta quick question guys. What do you guys think of the Nismo S tune package for a suspension for a 06 Spec V. The reason why i ask, cause many of the people that I've talked to talks about Tein. So any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys!!!
As far as spring rates and drop height go, it is a great combo, but the struts will eventually wear out. I had Koni struts paired with the Nosmo springs and it was the best suspension I have ever driven.
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Garrett

What about the Ksport Pro GT Coilovers? Are they pretty good?
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Anyone have any ideas where I can go to confirm the stock spring rates for a spec? I saw an old post on nissan forums from around 2005 that leads me to believe we might be looking at the stock spring rates flipped and should be 247F and 154R. Im trying to confirm the rates. I've emailed courtesy nissan parts to see if they can verify.
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