No, you do not gain any power from synthetic power.  Regardless of what the pretty commercials with Ferraris and running horses might lead you to believe.

it doesn't make the car faster.all it's the fact that you just changed your oil so its going to run better.

mobil 1 baby

Oh no, here we go again. There is absolutely no reason why you should use synthetic oil on a Sentra. It doesn't matter if you're driving a GXE or a Spec V.  These cars do not have high revving, high power output engines.  Just use what the owner's manual says and save some money. 

Unless your engine is constantly hitting 8k rpms and putting down 300+ horsepower, you don't need synthetic oil.

Paradise Burner wrote:

Oh no, here we go again. There is absolutely no reason why you should use synthetic oil on a Sentra. It doesn't matter if you're driving a GXE or a Spec V.  These cars do not have high revving, high power output engines.  Just use what the owner's manual says and save some money. 

Unless your engine is constantly hitting 8k rpms and putting down 300+ horsepower, you don't need synthetic oil.

Who are you to say it absolutely doesn't need synthetic? If you plan on owning the car for a while, I'd rather avoid a crappy gunk filled engine from using dino-oil for 60k+ miles. It's a fact that true synthetic oil (not pseudo synthetic oil, aka Mobil 1) will protect the engine better from build up over a long period of time.

dirtyV wrote:

Paradise Burner wrote:

Oh no, here we go again. There is absolutely no reason why you should use synthetic oil on a Sentra. It doesn't matter if you're driving a GXE or a Spec V.  These cars do not have high revving, high power output engines.  Just use what the owner's manual says and save some money. 

Unless your engine is constantly hitting 8k rpms and putting down 300+ horsepower, you don't need synthetic oil.

Who are you to say it absolutely doesn't need synthetic? If you plan on owning the car for a while, I'd rather avoid a crappy gunk filled engine from using dino-oil for 60k+ miles. It's a fact that true synthetic oil (not pseudo synthetic oil, aka Mobil 1) will protect the engine better from build up over a long period of time.

What do you mean by mobil 1 being pseduo synthetic? As far as I know it's completely synth.

I run synth because it gets really cold here and the flow better under those conditions and maybe helps reduce wear a little bit on all those cold startups.

^^ +1.

gotak wrote:

dirtyV wrote:

Paradise Burner wrote:

Oh no, here we go again. There is absolutely no reason why you should use synthetic oil on a Sentra. It doesn't matter if you're driving a GXE or a Spec V.  These cars do not have high revving, high power output engines.  Just use what the owner's manual says and save some money. 

Unless your engine is constantly hitting 8k rpms and putting down 300+ horsepower, you don't need synthetic oil.

Who are you to say it absolutely doesn't need synthetic? If you plan on owning the car for a while, I'd rather avoid a crappy gunk filled engine from using dino-oil for 60k+ miles. It's a fact that true synthetic oil (not pseudo synthetic oil, aka Mobil 1) will protect the engine better from build up over a long period of time.

What do you mean by mobil 1 being pseduo synthetic? As far as I know it's completely synth.

I run synth because it gets really cold here and the flow better under those conditions and maybe helps reduce wear a little bit on all those cold startups.

Mobil 1 is a group III. Due to a loophole in the labeling/classifying of oils, they're allowed to market it as 'full synthetic'. It's just not though. Lots of info posted online about it. bobistheoilguy. com is a good place oil info.

On a side note, my Blackstone Lab oil analysis kit just arrived, giggity giggity!

edit: treed by nismo, damnit lol

Last edited by dirtyV (2008-12-02 21:24:57)

^ el oh el

I dont wanna be mean,but does anyone here feel like their answering a really dumb question?I mean,dino V synth?BTW,how much do the blackstone oil analysis kits cost?

Imetalmonkey wrote:

I dont wanna be mean,but does anyone here feel like their answering a really dumb question?I mean,dino V synth?BTW,how much do the blackstone oil analysis kits cost?

The kit itself is free, the analysis is $22.50 + 10 more if you want a TBN to go with it. The TBN is a measurement of the remaining additive in the oil.

alexphoenix wrote:

I put in synthetic oil and I def felt the car pull stronger and when I rev the engine sounds beastly.  Does it actually gain any HP?

wow. just wow.

Imetalmonkey wrote:

I dont wanna be mean,but does anyone here feel like their answering a really dumb question?I mean,dino V synth?BTW,how much do the blackstone oil analysis kits cost?

Here's what you get with it:  http://myspecv.com/f/t162479-blackstone … -kits.html

In case you were curious

ill put my .02 in i have recently changed my oil....before i changed it i had royal purple 5w 30...i changed it to Q horsepower  and not only did my mileage drop from 33 miles to the gallon to 28 but the engine feels a little more sluggish...i can tell u one thing next oil change im going back to royal purple.......synthetic oil by the way does make a difference    read up on it and u will find out

I was using Mobil 1 then switched to Redline synth and i feel a big difference especially when the oil is almost due for a change the car doesn't feel sluggish.

I am not sure if you guys get different Mobil 1 but it looks like we in the North only get 1 type of Mobil 1 here and it is a with supersynth and they do say "fully synthetic". Maybe the rules

dirtyV wrote:

cute02spec wrote:

dirtyV wrote:

Mobil 1 is a group III. Due to a loophole in the labeling/classifying of oils, they're allowed to market it as 'full synthetic'. It's just not though. Lots of info posted online about it. bobistheoilguy. com is a good place oil info.

On a side note, my Blackstone Lab oil analysis kit just arrived, giggity giggity!

edit: treed by nismo, damnit lol

the oil anaylsis kits rock! 

And all my Mobil1 tests have always come back with good results, therefore I keep using the oil.  15W-50 in the two Specs and BMW, 10W-30 in the SE-R

I wasn't going to use it until after I had switched to syn, but curiosity got the best of me. I want to see how bad the fuel dilution is on my factory fill oil. Our engines (along with other direct injection motors from VW/Audi, BMW) have pretty shitty fuel dilution issues causing the oil to shear pretty rapidly.

The QR25 isn't direct injected......

donspecv02 wrote:

dirtyV wrote:

cute02spec wrote:

the oil anaylsis kits rock! 

And all my Mobil1 tests have always come back with good results, therefore I keep using the oil.  15W-50 in the two Specs and BMW, 10W-30 in the SE-R

I wasn't going to use it until after I had switched to syn, but curiosity got the best of me. I want to see how bad the fuel dilution is on my factory fill oil. Our engines (along with other direct injection motors from VW/Audi, BMW) have pretty shitty fuel dilution issues causing the oil to shear pretty rapidly.

The QR25 isn't direct injected......

I don't have a Spec anymore. I bought a Mazdaspeed 3.

diaz cuando vas a comprar el lip de Stillen? me copiastes

omar wrote:

a run a mix of red bull and unicorn urine in my motor

HAHA, no manitor blood?

armadnigeneral wrote:

To put it simplistically, conventional oil is refined from crude oil that's pumped right out of the ground. In the bottles that you buy, it's about 80% petroleum product and 20% additives (which may be either synthetic or naturally-occuring additives, actually). Things like viscosity index improvers, anti-scuff agents, friction-reducing materials, and detergents. But in the end it's mostly just oil that's basically refined from what's pumped out of the ground. This is most of what you find on the shelves.

On the other end of the spectrum are the Group IV type oils. These are truly, full-synthetic oils, produced in a plant rather than pumped out of the ground and refined, with PAO and ester bases. Desirable characteristics in engine oil can be engineered into these oils by altering the chemical makeup. The additives are similar, though obviously different in specifics because of the difference in where synthetic oils already start out. These are some brands of Group IV oil: Amsoil, Red Line, Motul, Royal Purple, Elf, Eneos, and only one type of Castrol Syntec, the 0W-30 "made in Germany" European formula.

Now, a little while back Mobil discovered that what Castrol was advertising and labeling as "synthetic" was in fact not truly synthetic, but instead a highly-enhanced, pumped-out-of-the-ground type base. The API decided not to make a true definition for "synthetic" oils, and Mobil sued Castrol...basically, the court ruled that Castrol's oil was engineered enough from the base that it could be called "synthetic." As a result, Mobil 1 "synthetic" soon changed in formula from a true Group IV synthetic, to a lesser Group III oil. Group III oils start with the same exact stuff as regular conventional oil...it's pumped out of the ground and refined into a product. But it then undergoes processes called hydrocracking and isodewaxing which wind up mimicking some of the properties of Group IV synthetic oils. These "fake synthetics" make up the majority of mass-marketed synthetic oils today. Castrol Syntec (except the one type mentioned before), most Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline, and plenty others are all just Group III oils, petroleum-based but highly, extensively refined...and of course, with an addtive package to complement it.

Synthetic blend oil is a joke, by the way. If you ever pay extra for anything labeled "synthetic blend," please kill yourself. Basically you're buying 100% petroleum based oil, but a certain part of it (never 50%, of course....usually no more than 20%) is a Group III, highly-refined petroleum based. So if you buy 5 quarts of synthetic blend oil, best case scenario you now have four quarts of regular old conventional, and one quart of Group III "fake synthetic."

Now you know