02SERious wrote:

you pretty much got it. but don't expect much of a performance gain. my greater satisfaction came from the suspension mods.

+1


When you can hug a corner like a fat chick holding on to the last piece of cheesecake, then it'll bring a smile to your face.

if you want all motor and decent speed go for vq swap because it would be about the same price.  other than that, i would say keep it basic and go with i/h/e/mmis/suspension/wheels/new brake pads/rotors depending on ur current ones and leave it at that.  you can add cams/pulleys/bore the engine/balance shaft remover/safc 2 and so on, but it doesn't add that much horsepower for what they cost.  it all depends on what your looking for out of the car.  i've had 2 modded cars and i thought with basic i/h/e/suspension/mmis/short throw/sway bars/strut bar(spec doesn't need it) for a daily driver is fairly decent.  i've never been about speed, but about feel and handling.  so my opinion is figure out what ur looking for and go from there.  that's like i would pick an evo 9 rs/ lotus exige, porsche gt3, or bmw  e46 m3 csl over every other car in the market right now as a car and it's because that's what those cars are made for.  not over done and fairly well balanced between power and handling which is my ideal car.

Fireman sounds like your doing the same thing I'm doing and you have a good direction.

Just want an enjoyable car to drive right?

Everyone else (except maybe for a vq swap.. sorry) is a good idea. I have Intake, header, exhaust with a Short throw and the car is fun. Last things that are missing really are a nice Nismo Suspension setup and Travis Motor mounts and crossmember inserts. (theres currently a group buy for those.) With all that you'll have a decently quick car that's solid too.

With doing the Underdrive pulleys, and fidanza flywheel and jwt clutch just makes the car more responsive "snappy" you could say. Your removing unsprung weight which helps the engine rev a little quicker. Like everyone else says, don't expect "huge" numerical gains, the car will feel better than the numbers show but numbers aren't that important it's how the car feels and drives.

Last edited by Jarek (2008-12-02 16:32:55)

you can also go with larger valves, everything else has already been mentioned besides a rsb which really helped in handeling imo

dont waste money on n/a other than i/h/e.  our cars don't bolt on too well

firemen0724 wrote:

Hey everyone, I was considering doing some mod work on my new 06 spec v and was wondering on what I can do, without throwing in a turbo or nos.  I have of course considered the usual bolt on mods, such as CAI, stillen header w/ race pipe and stromung exhaust.  I live in Cali so you know the smog laws are gay and I will not pass so I will have to pay a fee for being a gross polluter.  Now my question is, what else can I do to the car?  Ive considered cams, port and polish the heads as well as port the throttle body.  Is there anything im missing?  I don't want this car completely raced out its still going to be a daily driver so what cams should I buy from JWT?  And do I need to upgrade the clutch, and a light weight flywheel?  I was also considering the unorthodox pulleys?  As you can see there is a lot on my mind.  So any suggestions would be much appreciated.  Thanks guys!

If you want to go big do;

- I/H/midpipe/E
- Custom grind cams
- Ported intake manifold
- Ported throttle body
- Ported cylinder head
- JWT BSR
- 11.5:1 compression pistons
- 07 crank
- JWT or custom valve springs
- JWT flywheel/clutch
- Megasquirt for engine management
- UR crank pulley

This setup should give you about 200-210whp with 7200-7500rpm redline. JWT valve springs are good to only 7200rpm so if you want to rev more you need custom valve springs...

This setup will cost around 3-5k or more when its all done.

If you want to keep it simple, just do; I/H/midpipe/E/JWT cams/JWT BSR/Ported intake manifold & throttle body/UR crank pulley/SAFC-II or NEO for tuning. That setup will give you 175-180whp, without putting a hole in your vallet...

The EASIEST way how to make power with this car is to buy a Treadstone turbo kit, trust me... I have been fully bolted, dynoed at 181whp/180wtq and the car was still slow...

hey good luck in cali man. header will void warranty at most dealers also wont pass smog. so basicly you get some internals (bsr, valves, cams, stuff like that) and catback and intake before you go so far as making it un smogable in cali. unless you know someone but thats a different story. i have been looking for ways around the cali smog for a while

yea i wanted to push 200whp N/A but it really isnt feesable, you might as well go F/I...im thinking about it but really dont have the cash

so your telling me that if you have an o2 sensor code and you have replaced your precat with a header and you take it to the dealer they will replace your o2 for free, or what if you had a p0420. are they going to replace your precat that you dont have anymore, no sir.... unless you get a nice tech but i see lots of tecs at the shop i work at who would not replace it and would make you pay for it. so yes it does void some parts of your warranty.

Last edited by 06chill (2008-12-06 12:53:07)