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2008-11-08 20:09:12 (8 weeks 5 days 12 hours 56 minutes 44 seconds) #1917851 | | view posts since this          #1 

RZ6
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need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

hey guys i just bought a short shifter from ebay. I ve never done any mod like this. does anybody know where i can get a GOOD write up on it or does anyone have any knowledge? Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

here is the one i bought:
http://i37.tinypic.com/10pq80n.jpg

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2008-11-08 20:21:02 (8 weeks 5 days 12 hours 44 minutes 54 seconds) #1917860 | | view posts since this          #2 

RZ6
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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

anybody?

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2008-11-08 20:59:40 (8 weeks 5 days 12 hours 6 minutes 16 seconds) #1917881 | | view posts since this          #3 

spec-bre

Kenny

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

Hate to say this but you went the wrong direction for a short shifter. The set you bought looks alot like the B&M short through and it is a cable braking piece of shit. http://myspecv.com/f/t162908-pics-of-bm … o-buy.html


Boosted 02 SE-R Spec-v http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee290/litefingers376/Scooter3-1.jpg
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2008-11-08 22:45:35 (8 weeks 5 days 10 hours 20 minutes 21 seconds) #1917992 | | view posts since this          #4 

RZ6
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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

thats what ive heard on here but i have two friends w/ specs, that have these for a while & they have lasted.

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2008-11-08 22:49:02 (8 weeks 5 days 10 hours 16 minutes 54 seconds) #1917996 | | view posts since this          #5 

sharpmaxell

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

i have a short shifter very close to this one. i didnt put it in myself but i can take pictures tomorrow for a reference. also, i've had it on for over a year with out any problems

Last edited by sharpmaxell (2008-11-08 22:49:21)


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa313/Sharpmaxell/sharpbanner.png

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2008-11-09 01:46:10 (8 weeks 5 days 7 hours 19 minutes 46 seconds) #1918089 | | view posts since this          #6 

Givenher Boost

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

I had this style of shifter for almost 2 years...... until this week when it snapped on me and caused a lot of stress, not to mention draining on the pocketbook to repair. I'd advise you to sell it and get a tranny mounted one instead. That's my plan.


http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/3608/mybanner48f4f3ceba70dxz6.jpg

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2008-11-09 06:22:42 (8 weeks 5 days 2 hours 43 minutes 14 seconds) #1918145 | | view posts since this          #7 

spec-bre

Kenny

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

I ran the B&M short shifter for two years on my car (or around 15k miles) and broke the first cable then $140 for a new one and then the little (high/low gear) ball thing on the bottem/side of the shifter broke and when I went to put the old shifter back in I noticed that my new cable was already bent. Do the trany mount STS or the big J $12 dolla short shifter  mod in the how to section.


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2008-11-09 06:28:34 (8 weeks 5 days 2 hours 37 minutes 22 seconds) #1918147 | | view posts since this          #8 

The Pitt

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

dont even use that thing, i used to have one, actually i had one of these and the twm on the linkage.  my shit was hella short


03 Spec V  I/H/E/mmi  smiley-smile
08 CBR600RR  lots of mods smiley-love
89 240sx, work in progress obviously... smiley-cool

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2008-11-19 21:47:42 (7 weeks 1 day 11 hours 18 minutes 14 seconds) #1928203 | | view posts since this          #9 

RZ6
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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

can anybody give me some tips on installing one of these instead of telling what a piece of crap it is? I understand it's not the best but it will do until i can purchase a new, I just need help installing it. anybody? plz help

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2008-12-19 21:51:10 (2 weeks 6 days 11 hours 14 minutes 46 seconds) #1959927 | | view posts since this          #10 

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

I have installed this shifter and its quite easy I'll go through a quick step with you and if you need more info just leave me a message and i'll e-mail you (may be able to get pictures as well)


1) remove the center console. There are screws on botn sides of the kick panels up front they will need to be removed. (get on the floor and look to the right of the driver seat left of passnger) Now that empty space where the e-brake is you will see what looks like a pop out piece it is, remove it an then the screw under it. Now go to the backseat and look at the cupholder (insure it is closed) now underneath it is a gap grab there and pull the cover will come out. If you need to use a screwdriver and pry. Now on both side there is a screw so two total, remove them. Now the kick panel upfront will need to be pulled off make sure this is done. Now around the shifter boot (the leather) you will see how there is a slight outline around where it attached put a screwdriver and go around till it pops out. This should be the same piece that the cupholders are on so when it pops up the cupholder in the front will come up with it. Okay now reach your hand back there and unplug the clip to the CIG lighter. Now the whole center console should come up, pull up the back portion first this will make it easier. Make sure when it is up far enough to remove the clip for the AUX charger located next to the e-brake, the clip is just like the CIG lighter.

2) Now your are going to need to get under the car (jack it up first makes it easier) Now about the middle of your exhaust pipe there is a heat shield i believe with 6 screws holding it on... they will need to come off and the heat shield removed. You may need to removed the bolts on the hanger located on the driver side in order to get the heat shield off. Once you are this far you will see two 12mm bolts above where the shield use to be, remove them. This will allow the shifter housing to come out later  on. "YOU MAY NEED TO UNBOLT YOUR HANGER TO GET SHIELD TO SLIDE OUT"

3) K, get back in the car and look at the shifter itself. There is a cable on both side of the shifter the one on the left can be removed by just pulling towards the driver door. You will have to inspect the one to the right to see how it comes off that rode welded to the stock shifter. After this is done you will need to follow both cable down till you see a slider pin. Should be copper and U-shaped  and its holding the cable to the housing material. Use a pair of plyers grab the lip on each on and slide them out, they are a pain somtimes. Once there off the cable will come up and move around freely.

4) now there are four screws holding the shifter housing down if i remember correctly there are on each corner, but just look around. After those screws have been removed grab the shifter pull up it should come out freely along with the housing attached to it. Use your imagination it should look somthing like this.

5) Now that you have the housing removed, you will notice a sping that when you move the shifter it coils. Use plyers compress that spring and slowly
slide it off. You can just push it with your finger but i highly recommend you don't. That spring has alot of pressure behind it and it will come flying off
if it hits you, your going to have a nasty scar... trust me i know.

           {}
            |
===     |      === 6) If you follow the stock shifter down its shaft you will see it is held into the housing by a square plastic plate. You must remove this
      |     |     |              "plate. Look at my lame diagram"
--->|----|----| <------- On either side of the housing about where my arrows are you will see two slots, as you notice, the plate has edges on it that slide
      |___|___|            into these slots, this is how its held in. Use a flat head screwdriver and push them in and up till all four edges are no longer
                                 inside the slots. Most people use two screwdrivers and try to push them down on each side of the plate from the top, this makes it so hard i cant tell you so please just hold up the housing at fist and look at the side, this makes it so much easier.

7) Once the plate is off, remove the stock shifter. Now at the top of this forum page where you provided a picture of the kit you purchased, take the black piece with the hole in it (top left of the picture) and place it down into the housing. Now you can place the new shifter into the housing. (prior to doing this use White Grease and grease the the bottom round ball of the shifter, this helps keep it lubricated and easier on shifts.

8) Now take that Blue plate  (bottom left side of the picture above) you see it has the same edges as the stock on you removed, align it properly and hammer it down in the houseing just like the stock one. Use a cloth so as to not damage the plate. Once this is down look at the sides and make sure the edges on the new piece have slid into the slots of the housing.

9) Now take the four Blue bushings that came in your kit (right hand side about the middle of the picture above)  Look at the shifter housing at each end you will see the four stock bushing (there black and just pop out, use a screwdriver) Now place the new bushings into there place, they should only fit one way.

10) Take the neutral return spring you removed earlier, pry it back down and put it back into the indents that it was first removed. This will be very tricky and take sometime to complete. After this is done take the housing and place it back into the car, secure the four bolts that held it down.

11) Okay, now take the L shaped bracket (Just above the blue plate in the pic above) Now there should be a pin like deal, some nuts a screw, and some allen wrench screws with your kit. Take the L bracket and set it next to the new shifter (right hand side) you will see how it goes through the bracket, now take the cable you removed earlier put the pin through the bracket into the cable through one of the holes in the top of the new shifter., put the screw on the other side to securely hold it in place.

12) Now look at it to see how the cable on the left side goes on there should be some screw that goes through the L bracket... Its been a long time so just pardon me if i make a mistake. But it should be easy to see how it works. Now i suggest locktite-ing the screws and what not to hold both cables on, Just because i have had them come loose on me so...

13) Now theres that small square bracket (bottom right hand side of the picture above)


             (  )
             |  |         _____
             |  |___   | o   o |
             |_____) |_____|  You will notice it has a line slot through it. Put it infront of the L bracket as seen here, now use the allen wrench screws to secure it to the cable.


(cable will run through that line slot)

Now make sure it shifts and works properly and everything is copesetic. Make sure to go back over everything make sure the screws are back on good and the housing is nice an tight. Now Get back under the car secure the two bolts, replace the heat shield and then put the console back together and your done. This on average should take most people 3 hours less depending on how DIY you are.


I hope this helps you out as i said send me a post if you have problems i can try and get pictures. Also let me explain it has been a long time sence i did this so i may have missed some steps or details, please understand that. I really hope this helps you let me know how it works out

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2008-12-19 21:52:58 (2 weeks 6 days 11 hours 12 minutes 58 seconds) #1959929 | | view posts since this          #11 

cute02spec
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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

whoa, awesome post!  can you please post it in the how to section as well as a new thread?  smiley-smile


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2008-12-19 21:56:48 (2 weeks 6 days 11 hours 9 minutes 8 seconds) #1959932 | | view posts since this          #12 

armadnigeneral

Alex

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

RZ6 wrote:

can anybody give me some tips on installing one of these instead of telling what a piece of crap it is? I understand it's not the best but it will do until i can purchase a new, I just need help installing it. anybody? plz help

They're just trying to help you. If you can't buy a $100 ss adapter, can you afford a couple hundred to replace a broken linkage?


2003 Molten Spec V
Intake, header, custom WS2 catback, TBB, BSR (chain cut).
Hawk HPS pads, Powerslot rotors, Goodridge SS lines, ATE Super Blue fluid. Silver Nismos w/BFG KDWs. (On steelies w/Winterforce for the winter)
Koni shocks, Prokit springs. Stock FSB/FSTB, Nismo RSB & LTB. Energy Suspension MMI. Custom SS.
JVC head unit, Pioneer amp/speakers.

Not fast enough yet...

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2008-12-19 21:57:13 (2 weeks 6 days 11 hours 8 minutes 43 seconds) #1959933 | | view posts since this          #13 

TurboSpecV

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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

3 Shift cabes i went thre when i had the spec v ....... safe your self the head ache and get the one that bolts to the top of the trans....... shift cables are 100 dollars per set


http://i35.tinypic.com/9a7edc.jpg

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2008-12-19 21:58:01 (2 weeks 6 days 11 hours 7 minutes 55 seconds) #1959934 | | view posts since this          #14 

BlueGoat
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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

Yeah i'll get started putting it there. I'd like to check to make sure i have some pictures first so i can be more detailed and its easier to follow.

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2008-12-19 22:06:03 (2 weeks 6 days 10 hours 59 minutes 53 seconds) #1959939 | | view posts since this          #15 

BlueGoat
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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

The one i had installed worked out ok. I also went through the housing and fabricated some parts and made adjustments for better fitment. I understand what your saying though i've heard the stories seen some of the problems it can cause, and yes a different shifter would be ideal but for a little while this one will do ok.
But i would suggest a different one later on when its affordable. And after instaling this one another should be a breeze.

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2008-12-19 22:51:26 (2 weeks 6 days 10 hours 14 minutes 30 seconds) #1959976 | | view posts since this          #16 

BlueGoat
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Re: need hepl bad w/ a short shifter

Partially i believe the end of the L bracket  Is a problem once installed you will notice after say a week, take off the bezel around the shifter and look at the housing, you will see Blue lines where the L bracket is actually sliding acrossed the plaster when going into 1st 3rd an 5th so removing some of the plastic is a way to help solve this problem. This is an experience of a friend that had one, and this is what caused it break the cable. What seems to have happened is the L bracket slides agaisnt the plastic causing problems when shifting. You notice a groove in the plastic. Anyways the bolt/nuts holding the L bracket in come loose from vibration and combined friction on the plastic once the bolts/nuts come loose the L bracket tilts forward to backwards depending on the shifting. Once it tilts just the right way it gets stuck or goes all crookeedy and when you shift SNAP there goes the cable so something to think about perhaps

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