
brandon



so i just put a 6 puck act clutch in, and about 100 in to the break in it started to squeal when i release the clutch from a stop. i torque the pressure plate to specs and put new throw out bearing in, i didnt put the new pilot bearing it cause i heard its behind the flywheel and when i looked at a how to to remove the flywheel it said you had to grind it out just to get the bolts off. i called act and they said its prolly the throw out bearing but was wondering if anyone had the same problem and why the new throw out bearing would be bad, if anyone could please help that would be awesome
thanks guys
Brandon

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brandon



my bad my computer was on the fritz,

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brandon



i was doing some research and came across a thread about a new clutch and in it blackedoutv (i think thats who wrote it) said
i know that if you're going to do anything other than the stock clutch, you need to replace the flywheel also. the stock clutch is unsprung and the flywheel is sprung. normally, you have a sprung clutch and an unsprung flywheel.
could this be the reason that it is maing that noise ?

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Travis


well well havent seen you in a while. i might suggest getting an aftermarket flywheel anyway. the fidanza is about 16lbs lighter than the stock monster.

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brandon



yeah if only they werent so much, 450 is a little to much for a flywheel in my own opinion
sharpmaxell wrote:
well well havent seen you in a while. i might suggest getting an aftermarket flywheel anyway. the fidanza is about 16lbs lighter than the stock monster.

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Josh




When you put a sprung clutch like your act on our stock flywheel it will prob end up chattering like what is happening to you when you start to move from a stop. Get a flywheel and it will stop.
Lifes to short to drive a shitty car, get in a Spec V-T
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brandon



silverspec wrote:
When you put a sprung clutch like your act on our stock flywheel it will prob end up chattering like what is happening to you when you start to move from a stop. Get a flywheel and it will stop.
i have a solid hub 6 puck act clutch, i went through the whole break in process and it is slipping bad. i went up a hill and it was slipping the whole way up when i was giving it little throttle
i was wondering since we have sprung flywheels if thats the cause of it?
thanks silverspec

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Kenny



You should have removed the flywheel and had it resurfaced. You don't have to grind the bolts off of the flywheel to get them out but you do need the proper tools.
Last edited by spec-bre (2008-10-31 06:34:31)

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Don



bwanan201 wrote:
yeah if only they werent so much, 450 is a little to much for a flywheel in my own opinion
sharpmaxell wrote:
well well havent seen you in a while. i might suggest getting an aftermarket flywheel anyway. the fidanza is about 16lbs lighter than the stock monster.
I got my fidanza $304 shipped off ebay.
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brandon



i just ordered a findanza fly wheel for 304 shipped, i talked to richard at act and he said that are flywheels cannot be resurfaced. is snap on the only place to get the tool to take the stock flywheel off, no other brands would work why only snap on? and where can you get new flywheel bolts thanks guys

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Don



bwanan201 wrote:
i just ordered a findanza fly wheel for 304 shipped, i talked to richard at act and he said that are flywheels cannot be resurfaced. is snap on the only place to get the tool to take the stock flywheel off, no other brands would work why only snap on? and where can you get new flywheel bolts thanks guys
You need Torx Plus 50 or 55 bits to get the bolts off the flywheel, which I believe are only sold by Snap on. You need to get new flywheel bolts from the stealer.
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brandon



so using the old bolts aint a good idea? a friend of mine tried using a torx socket from craftsmen and it eading up breaking every tooth on the craftsmen socket lol

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Tony






bwanan201 wrote:
so using the old bolts aint a good idea? a friend of mine tried using a torx socket from craftsmen and it eading up breaking every tooth on the craftsmen socket lol
The bolts stretch when torqued... Old bolts or reused bolts will be weaker than new ones...
Get a new bolts, they are not expensive ($1-$2 per bolt at the stealer). Make sure you bath the new bolts in RED locktite before you put them in.
Follow this procedure;
- get new bolts
- torque them to 30ft-lbs
- loosen all bolts
- torque them to 60 ft-lbs
- loosen all bolts
- apply RED locktite on all bolts
- final torque all bolts to 90 ft-lbs
Make sure you do this right. I had flywheel bolts fail, because stupid shop reused the flywheel bolts and didn't use locktite. When the flywheel bolts failed they destroyed the crankshaft and flywheel in the process. Two bolts backed out and four of them snapped... I had to get a new flywheel and new crankshaft, bearings, etc... Ended up costing me around $700 just in parts...
Last edited by Black04SpecV (2008-11-02 09:48:12)
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Don



bwanan201 wrote:
so using the old bolts aint a good idea? a friend of mine tried using a torx socket from craftsmen and it eading up breaking every tooth on the craftsmen socket lol
You have to use TORX PLUS, not regular torx. You will keep breaking bits if you use regular torx. They are NOT the same thing. You'll need both a TP-50 and a TP-55 bits just in case.
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brandon



well i use a t 50 and it fit, can i just get the snap on t 50 cause there 35 a piece ?

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brandon



thanks ill be doing this at the end of the week. i have to ship act my clutch tomm so they can inspect it
Black04SpecV wrote:
bwanan201 wrote:
so using the old bolts aint a good idea? a friend of mine tried using a torx socket from craftsmen and it eading up breaking every tooth on the craftsmen socket lol
The bolts stretch when torqued... Old bolts or reused bolts will be weaker than new ones...
Get a new bolts, they are not expensive ($1-$2 per bolt at the stealer). Make sure you bath the new bolts in RED locktite before you put them in.
Follow this procedure;
- get new bolts
- torque them to 30ft-lbs
- loosen all bolts
- torque them to 60 ft-lbs
- loosen all bolts
- apply RED locktite on all bolts
- final torque all bolts to 90 ft-lbs
Make sure you do this right. I had flywheel bolts fail, because stupid shop reused the flywheel bolts and didn't use locktite. When the flywheel bolts failed they destroyed the crankshaft and flywheel in the process. Two bolts backed out and four of them snapped... I had to get a new flywheel and new crankshaft, bearings, etc... Ended up costing me around $700 just in parts...

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brandon



will a 55 type bolt work with my 02 se-r???

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bwanan201 wrote:
will a 55 type bolt work with my 02 se-r???
Yes it will I have an 02 and when I installed my act stage 1 and fidanza I had to buy a TP50 (to take off bolts) and a TP55 to put them on. For some reason when I bought the new bolts
they were all TP55. I tried searching for a hex bolt so I can replace them and the thread on the TP55s was only made by nissan. some kind of special thread. I went to 4 different bolt places. One thing that I noticed when I took it off is that the bolt had loctite on them. i did not know this so i stripped the oem bolts. I had to cut around the oem flywheel and use craftsman bolt strip removers( not pretty at all) So I had to heat up the bolts with a torch for about 1-2 minutes and then hit it with an impact and they finally came out. When I put the fidanza flywheel on I used TP55 and loctite. I just hit them with the impact and that was it.
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In '04 they redesigned the bolts and switched to TP-55, and those are the only flywheel bolts Nissan sells for the B15s now, so that's why you had to use TP-55 to install the new ones. 02/03s had TP-50. And that's Torx Plus, not normal Torx.

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TP50 and TP55 as stated before get the snap-on brand. I got some other brand and it got messed up.
Last edited by ssd-spec (2008-11-18 22:18:51)
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