bump for information and boredom

son!

pimpsmurf wrote:

stop bumping the thread.

What are the gaps on the plugs? perhaps one is off too much and it's missing. Seems like it would miss at high speeds more than low. Are you missing at high speed or idle?

-JNY

It will misfire anytime, never at idle that I have noticed. This has been going on for about 3 or 4 months and mostly happens at mid rpm range. Every now and then at high. I think the gaps are about .4 if my memory serves me right. Like I said the plugs look like they have normal wear, nothing out of the ordinary.

my friend was having these same problems on his sr20det in a 92 sentra. He did a swap so he never got a new fuel pump and it started doing this because the fuel pump was overloading he got a walbro 255 and it took care of most of it. What fixed the rest of it was new turbo gaskets. the one that connects the turbo to the manifold was completely gone. He has the boost controller set to 8psi and it was only reaching 3psi, because it was leaking some much. But once he bought new gaskets the problem was completly fixed. i dont know if this is what is wrong with your car i am just trying to give you some ideas.

speedjunkie wrote:

Black04SpecV wrote:

You need PROPER fuel management... Megasquirt... That WILL solve all your issues.

Controlling fuel with the stock ECU and a piggyback on a turbo SpecV is just asking for trouble and shitty tune, I have been there... Now I have Megasquirt and I have NO tune drift and perfect 11.6 at WOT...

Not that i am not all for letting everyone know the best there is out there but people have been using safc's on turbo cars for a long time, saying that is his problem is just plain ignorance.

Thats true. I ran an safc on my car and sure, every once in a while you will have a tune drift, or whatever, BUT, its a simple, push of a few buttons and its dead on again.

Sounds like your plugs are fucked if they are gapped at .4

i knw that u can get misfire codes from a bad coil pack, my buddy had this problem!

Dragonbreath wrote:

Turbofreak wrote:

i knw that u can get misfire codes from a bad coil pack, my buddy had this problem!

A friend told me the same thing. How can I figure out which one is bad if it is?

unplug the connectors going to the coil pack with the car running 1 by 1. when you dont hear a change then that coil pack or cylinder is misfiring

speedjunkie wrote:

Black04SpecV wrote:

You need PROPER fuel management... Megasquirt... That WILL solve all your issues.

Controlling fuel with the stock ECU and a piggyback on a turbo SpecV is just asking for trouble and shitty tune, I have been there... Now I have Megasquirt and I have NO tune drift and perfect 11.6 at WOT...

Not that i am not all for letting everyone know the best there is out there but people have been using safc's on turbo cars for a long time, saying that is his problem is just plain ignorance.

Let me see... You WILL have tune drift with SAFC-II, that can lead to rich conditions... Rich condititions WILL faul the plugs. Fauled plugs will cause misfire...

I went through SAFC-II & AEM FI/C before I found out that piggybacks on the SpecV don't work well at all. For a good stable tune you need full fuel standalone on this car.

Big J wrote:

what are your corrections on the SAFC?

1000- -2
2000- -23
2500- -25
3000- -22
3500- -21
4500- -20
5000- -25
6000- -26

all on hi throttle

05SpecVnBlack wrote:

  ONCE AGAIN, ALOT of ppl have been tuning there cars with piggybacks for quite sometime now, and while it does require a lil adjusting from time to time it isn't as difficult and inferior as you make it out to be. Just because YOU failed at successfully tuning your car with it doesn't mean that EVERYONE else has or will. Some ppl haven't had THAT much trouble with it and aren't ready to shell out more bread for megasquirt, when it hasn't exactly been mastered yet either. Has anyone been able to control(advance/retard) timing with MS on these cars yet?? That's the only way I'm gonna consider megasquirt, and probaly won't even do it then. I'm not trying to knock ANYONE who is using MS(because I know that's where you'll go with it), so please don't be so quick to knock piggybacks as a means to tune....because ALOT of ppl are still tuning SUCCESSFULLY with it.

I never said tuning with piggybacks is difficult... I have run SAFC-II for several months and successfully tuned it...

Megasquirt doesn't cost much compared to what it can do. SAFC-II is $190-$220 compared to $400 Megasquirt. And the SAFC-II cannot control injectors, control boost, datalog, doesn't have traction control or launch control, etc...

Megasquirt hasn't been mastered? Hmmm... I have been running Megasquirt for over 1000 miles without single issue. It holds perfect tune and beside cold startup and warmup its way easier to tune than ANY piggyback. The Megasquirt tunes ITSELF...

Of course you can control timing with megasquirt, you just need an external trigger wheel and sensor. Than for tuning you need a way of reading the timing, Cipher software is perfect...

Almost everybody who has Megasquirt let's the stock ECU control timing, just because stock ECU does a pretty good job in controlling timing and there is no need for messing with it, unless you run 14+psi.

I'm not trying to knock piggybacks. Heh, they work... BUT the proper way of tuning fuel on a boosted specV is with Megasquirt, you will never have tune drift...

Last edited by Black04SpecV (2008-10-30 11:00:22)

Jd's SpecV wrote:

hey guys i have a few problems too. the mechanic working on my car says that my oil line is suplying too much oil so it leaks to my intake manifold and smokes a lot through the exhaust. also my car shuts off a lot. can some one help me out please???? im running a turbo kit.

Sounds like the seals on your turbo have blown because you were not running a oil restrictor on your oil feed line.

HOLY FUCKING GAP BATMAN, put them to .30 and you will stop cutting out at higher boost like you said you were.. .50 is to big for NA. LOL

heres the oil restrictor that goes in your turbo and then your feed line goes into it.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merch … e=ATP-OIL1

A theory of why your car shuts off when you come to a stop alot is your bov could be to loose letting out to much air and not shutting all the way at idle, so when you go and stop it will stall. What BOV do you have?