Blinking check engine light usually indicates a misfire.  Check the plugs.. Also, could be something haywire with the electrical system, since you never really tracked down the problem for the no-start issue.

CV's on lowered cars are always open to compromise.. especially when you start making more power.. The angle is all wierd when you drop the car.. which puts more stress on the CV joint.  It happens...

I wish the car was in front of me.. it would certainly help in diagnosing this stuff. 

Travis

I usually do.. I had hooked his back up for trouble shooting when I first got it running.

I took it to Nissan they were more amazed and were like uhhh we can't touch that

Well there is oil in my intake manifold and there was I don't know why it's missfiring travis I really need your help his swap is starting to be more problems than it's worth.  Travis if I can get the car back to you would you fix it?

The cheaper/more logical sollution may be for me to fly in, and fix it up there.. instead of spending a shitload of money to transport the car back/forth, plus the parts/labor on top of that.  Whatever it is.. I'm sure it's something that I can handle up there.. since you seem to have access to a lift/tools, if need-be.

Travis

WhatNissan wrote:

well sounds good give me a call and we will talk dates

change your plugs. you said that as it goes up in RPM, the misfire goes away. sounds like a fouled plug to me. 

WhatNissan wrote:

I took it to Nissan they were more amazed and were like uhhh we can't touch that

just tell them to look at it like an altima SER

flashing light means a catalytic converter damaging misfire. -thats the exent of my help here.. sorry dont know anything about travis's crazy magical vq swaps and thier wiring. personally id check the usual causes for a misfire if it was running fine before and then started screwing up randomly

actually your wrong... im not getting argumentative with someone as knowledgeable as yourself, but a flashing check engine light means it is a catalytic converter damaging misfire, a regular misfire will just illuminate the light, under OBDII regualtions the check engine light must flash when the catalyic converter is in danger of being damaged a really bad misfire and/or afr's being to an extreme where the cat will be gathering more gasoline and not enough oxygen and it will case failure. i just learned it in school during advanced OBDII.

new information here are all of the codes

P0300 random multipule cillender misfire

P1490 manufacture auuillary controlls

P1706 manufacture controll transmition

P1800 transmition one again

P0550 power steering pressure malfunction

P1805

P1564 manf. Crtrl idle speed inputs

P0037 ho2s  bank 1 sensor 2 heater circut low

P0057 ho2s bank 2 sensor 2 heater circut low

P0183 fuel temp sensor a circut high input

P0462 fuel level sensor a circut low input

P0444 evap emmision controll system purge valve c open

P0021 cam shaft position actuatator a bank 2 timing over advance

P0447 evap emission controll system vent circut open

I got those codes at auto zone with there scanner but when I hooked it up to one of those expensive scanners at my buddeys shop and it it wouldn't power up.  Something is tucked up a loose wire or a blown fuse maybe

The P0021 code is going to be for the CVTC actuator.. which is located on the left side of the oil filler cap, and down a little ways, if you're looking at the car from the front.  THere's a green plug going to it, with two wires coming out. 

The causes for this code can be.. bad, or wrong camshaft or crankshaft position sensors, bad coolant temp sensor, or simply, a bad CVTC sensor itself.  The misfire is going to be caused by this code..

Travis

it's a constant and it doesent have as much power and I don't want to drive it as much

WhatNissan wrote:

do I just just switch out that acuator days when I was putting the motor in I broke that plug off the cillender thing and I just superglued it and it worked.  is it easy?  Do you have one?

Well, there's your problem..   That cylinder is a hydraulic actuator, and it's very sensative.. I don't have any spares.. Those things always show up broken.. As you can tell, it's very easy to break when moving the engine around.  I'm constantly replacing them on engines that I get in.

Travis

yea but I super glued it and it worked for a while and I checked the fuses nothing was blown

whenits running every now and then I hear a pssh sound from the actuatator I belive is that normal I would say every 20 or so seconds

travis wwould you come up here to fix it this crap is driving me crazy nobody knows anything about it but you

WhatNissan wrote:

yea but I super glued it and it worked for a while and I checked the fuses nothing was blown

Double check your "electrical parts" fuse.  That was the reason my OBD-II scanner wasnt working...

James. Can I get one off you?

WhatNissan wrote:

James. Can I get one off you?

Im on terminal, but I may be in Jacksonville next weekend if you can wait. I will be there Sunday

Change the CVTC solenoid.. that's your first step.  You are throwing a code for it and it was bumped/cracked.. so, that should be your first step.  If the misfire doesn't go away, then, we can look at replacing the coil pack on the cylinder that's misfiring.  This is how you go about diagnosing/fixing a problem with any car.  Pull the codes, and work down the list.  Eliminate the codes that could be causing the problem, one by one, until the problem goes away.  Taking guesses, and getting frustrated because the problem isn't going away isn't going to to help. 

You can do everything that I would do if I was there.. just by listening to what I tell you to do.  Replace the CVTC solenoid.. Clear the codes, and run the car.. If the problem doesn't go away, check the codes again, and go from there. 

Travis

travis the car even misfires at idle I in hooked the solinoid and it did nothing I in hooked both of them nothing it's like it doesn't matter untill your in the high rpm

ok I pulled that coil pack and the stem was burnt and the boot.   I replaced it and it fixed my problem.  Before that I smelled burning plastic and now I see why.  But when I accelarate it shakes still and I thought I started to smell it burn again.   What could cause this?

Mike I would really like it you could look at a few thing with me  my car shakes when I accelerate

Burnt coil pack(s) could indicate a ground issue, or power issue.. The shaking is misfire upon acceleration.. Do me a favor, Dave.. and make sure that you didn't somehow pinch the wiring harness, or burn it on the back of the motor..

VQ35 coil packs do burn out.. it's not a "common" issue, but, I've seen it happen before.  I just wish that I had the car in front of me, and I could diagnose/fix the problem.  Can you send the car out here?  I can fly out there, but, I would hate to not have the right part(s), and or tools to fix this.  Out here, I have the Consult II, and parts/tools for the job.

Travis