im sure you'd have to do all bolt ons available and internals.

true so its not even worth it at that point...or is it?

Yes SE-R wrote:

true so its not even worth it at that point...or is it?

if you're looking for more power for the least amount of money, n'a is NOT the way to go. but if you don't mind spending the money, I think a 200+ whp n/a car would be awesome. im thinkin about possibly goin that route

you should def do this. so many people talk about doing it but lets see someone actually take this route. do it!

what kind of internals are we talking and pricing/where to buy the shit...its def tempting

se-rman6 wrote:

id say dont start with internals just yet, why not get a fully built head and see what that does? maybe get one made from travis? im sure thatd make a really nice power gain especially with some nice custom cams and a higher redline

true whats his user name trav something or other right..?

There is a lot of tedious work involved in this. You may have to run race gas to keep the ECU from retarding too much timing.

se-rman6 wrote:

RedDragonV09 wrote:

There is a lot of tedious work involved in this. You may have to run race gas to keep the ECU from retarding too much timing.

or couldnt you get a megasquirt and solve that problem? i might be wrong

like I said, a lot of tedious work. Its not a walk in the park to install a full standalone ems. you could probably squeeze a bit more power out of the engine with the ms, but youll still need race fuel to get there regardless. either higher revving or high compression, or a combo of the two. knock will still occur.

evildriver wrote:

yeah its really easy actually, just get the +2 cylinder mod.  trav can hook you up with that.

word ill pm him bout it, and your sig is so nasty lol

tweb14 wrote:

would u consider a vq swap staying N/A ??

it would probably be in a similar price range, and you'd have closer to 300hp rather then 200

eh i'd rather stick with the qr...the vq is from the 350z right?

Yes SE-R wrote:

tweb14 wrote:

would u consider a vq swap staying N/A ??

it would probably be in a similar price range, and you'd have closer to 300hp rather then 200

eh i'd rather stick with the qr...the vq is from the 350z right?

altima or maxima

If you plan on staying all motor i'd say go VQ it will take quite a bit of money to get the QR over the 200 mark N/A,  spend a little more and you have a VQ swap which makes about ~230 wheel and its daily drivable/reliable.

saint0421 wrote:

ChRiSSpec_V wrote:

If you plan on staying all motor i'd say go VQ it will take quite a bit of money to get the QR over the 200 mark N/A,  spend a little more and you have a VQ swap which makes about ~230 wheel and its daily drivable/reliable.

+1 and it sounds almost as sexy as my sig looks

Most definatly lol

true yeah it was just a thought, im not against boosting, just thought itd be a lil cheaper to go n/a haha def. wrong on that...well i guess ill just start peicing out a turbo kit

ChRiSSpec_V wrote:

If you plan on staying all motor i'd say go VQ it will take quite a bit of money to get the QR over the 200 mark N/A,  spend a little more and you have a VQ swap which makes about ~230 wheel and its daily drivable/reliable.

agreed.  costs as much as a very well done turbo set-up and sounds sexah.

Blk2k3Specv wrote:

MajorMods wrote:

save ur money... n/a QR is like a waste of money and time... ull spend $10k to hit 200whp.... u can spend  $4-5k on a turbo kit and save the other $5k for any issues.

ppl that say boost is "dangerous" are people that have NEVER boosted their own car, so please do NOT listen to them.  talk to the 50+ boosted owners on here, ull see that its safe, when done properly and its very easy to do properly.

heres n/a mods necessary, if i had to guess:

high CR pistons
ecu reflash for higher redline
possibly a b16 crank + trigger wheel to support the higher redline
custom cams, made for top end, therefore losing tq also
fully worked head
pnp intake manifold + TB\
intake
header
exhaust
all pulleys
clutch + lightweight flywheel

all that I just listed is an easy $7-10k so good luck with that.

be smart, dont waste money or time on n/a mods IF you plan on boosting in the future.  if u dont wanna go boost for YOUR OWN REASONS, then sure buy n/a parts but dont plan on hitting above 185whp

HIGH CR PISTONS($700)
RODS ($400)
HEAD STUDS($300)
MAY WANT TO DO INJECTORS($250)
AND WALBRO FUEL PUMP($200)
HEAD GASKET($50-$100)
ECU REFLASH($400-$500)
B16 CRANK($1700 OR $1000 WITH A NISSAN EMPLOYEE DISCOUNT)
TRIGGER($200)
CUSTOM CAMS($700-$800)
FULLY WORKED HEAD {PNP OVERSIZED VALVES ,VALVE SPRINGS }$1200
PNP INTAKE MANI AND TB($400)
INTAKE($250)
HEADER($350)
EXHAUST($300-$600{IF YOU LIKE STROMUNG}
PULLEYS($200-$500)
CLUTCH($350)
FLYWHEEL($550)
AND MIGHT AS WELL MAKE IT A HONDA AND REMOVE YOUR A/C TO  GET THE REAL GAINS OFF OF YOUR PULLEYS($.00)BUT HEAT ISA BITCH LOL AND YOUR GRAND TOTAL IS

$7800


NOW THATS NOT INCLUDING INSTALL LABOR,SHIPPING AND TRIAL AND ERROR

IMO GO WITH BOOST OR SPRAY

i think you kinda over priced a few things... used wrx injectors ~100, brand new walbro pump 100, pnp IM is 300, the two pulleys are at most ~100 each, custom cams 600, pimpsmurfs 07 crank trigger thingy <100, ecu reflash (higher redline) is only $150.

however, you are missing some tuning stuff... like the 400 megasquirt offered by g.

Blk2k3Specv wrote:

MajorMods wrote:

save ur money... n/a QR is like a waste of money and time... ull spend $10k to hit 200whp.... u can spend  $4-5k on a turbo kit and save the other $5k for any issues.

ppl that say boost is "dangerous" are people that have NEVER boosted their own car, so please do NOT listen to them.  talk to the 50+ boosted owners on here, ull see that its safe, when done properly and its very easy to do properly.

heres n/a mods necessary, if i had to guess:

high CR pistons
ecu reflash for higher redline
possibly a b16 crank + trigger wheel to support the higher redline
custom cams, made for top end, therefore losing tq also
fully worked head
pnp intake manifold + TB\
intake
header
exhaust
all pulleys
clutch + lightweight flywheel

all that I just listed is an easy $7-10k so good luck with that.

be smart, dont waste money or time on n/a mods IF you plan on boosting in the future.  if u dont wanna go boost for YOUR OWN REASONS, then sure buy n/a parts but dont plan on hitting above 185whp

HIGH CR PISTONS($700)
RODS ($400)
HEAD STUDS($300)
MAY WANT TO DO INJECTORS($250)
AND WALBRO FUEL PUMP($200)
HEAD GASKET($50-$100)
ECU REFLASH($400-$500)
B16 CRANK($1700 OR $1000 WITH A NISSAN EMPLOYEE DISCOUNT)
TRIGGER($200)
CUSTOM CAMS($700-$800)
FULLY WORKED HEAD {PNP OVERSIZED VALVES ,VALVE SPRINGS }$1200
PNP INTAKE MANI AND TB($400)
INTAKE($250)
HEADER($350)
EXHAUST($300-$600{IF YOU LIKE STROMUNG}
PULLEYS($200-$500)
CLUTCH($350)
FLYWHEEL($550)
AND MIGHT AS WELL MAKE IT A HONDA AND REMOVE YOUR A/C TO  GET THE REAL GAINS OFF OF YOUR PULLEYS($.00)BUT HEAT ISA BITCH LOL AND YOUR GRAND TOTAL IS

$7800


NOW THATS NOT INCLUDING INSTALL LABOR,SHIPPING AND TRIAL AND ERROR

IMO GO WITH BOOST OR SPRAY

Travis is doing his 600whp build for $2200 more dollars than that $7800 you just added up. Its just not worth it if you think about it.

and we all know its cheaper to go turbo. so stop

yeah my 2 cents dont flame me. big j did a turbo setup for around 1200 dollars buying used parts , correct. im sure using the classifieds you could do an n/a build for half the price buying many used parts.id like to see it done , cause it is unique.a nice thought your sharing with us...(i meant half the price of a n/a build using new parts) dont get it twisted lol but we're not factoring in labor which will probably be half of parts cost unless your innnovative like iron man or a mechanic.goodluck sorry for ranting

yea im not really mechanically inclined but i do have a few friends and their dads are mechanics and they also know what their doing..also i have a friend that IS a nissan mechanic lol so he will hook me up for cheap labor..if it be so

all in all its not going to be as fun as just slapping ona turbo or spraying it! if you want to be diff and still make power go with a diff bottom end like a qr20 or custom make some cams or something but if you really wan tot go all motor and got the time $$  more power to you