Big J wrote:

fuel pump issues will go lean in teh upper rev ranges most of the time, when the car needs the most fuel. I added in corrections at idle ANd instead of subtracting -30 at redline, it's down to maybe -7

So what do you think is my problem? Why is it running lean with 0 corrections?

Big J wrote:

do you have another wideband you can check against?

No only the UEGO...

My UEGO is in the third spot on the Treadstone downpipe. Do you think its too close to the turbo and could have fucked up readings/wideband going bad?

05SpecVnBlack wrote:

I believe the ECM does some type of "LEARNING" to this shit as you go along. I used to be at -20 to -30 corrections on my Neo as well. Now I have my idle set at like -20 or -25, but I'm at -5 corrections the rest of the way up and my AFR's are at steady 11's, and sometimes jumping up to the low 12's. I don't know why every1 freaks out when they see a high 11 or low 12 AFR. I don't really worry until I see a 13 at WOT in boost. I believe the closer you can come to 0 corrections the better. I THINK the humidity we have experienced here this summer has had alot to do with having to add fuel in order to achieve a safe AFR.
I've been running afr's in the high 11's to low 12 for over a year now and 15k miles. I have run anywhere from 6.5 to 10psi of boost during this period of time. I haven't heard any audible detonation during this time either.

The ECU learns over a period of time (few days). I have pin 121 cut so the ECU resets every time I shut the car off...

If you unplug the 1st 02 sensor, it will go into a default open loop mode all the time. You will have to tune, idle, cruize, part throttle, wot, etc...lot more work, but gives you control of everything without ?tune drift.. it will give you an ses light though obviously. SO your car is going lean under WOT at higher rpms? did I read this right?

Well, an untuned car is an untuned car. If you had the safc and now the aem fic, it shouldnt really have changed. If you were running rich before and has to pull fuel on the safc, then it should be the same with the fic. Why would it change? Thats my thoughts. Just because you installed the fic shouldnt have made it that you need to add fuel now, when before you were pulling fuel off the stock fuel map. Have you changed anything else on the fic or is it completely off the stock ecu like a safc would be with no corrections? No timing changes or anything?

silverspec wrote:

Well, an untuned car is an untuned car. If you had the safc and now the aem fic, it shouldnt really have changed. If you were running rich before and has to pull fuel on the safc, then it should be the same with the fic. Why would it change? Thats my thoughts. Just because you installed the fic shouldnt have made it that you need to add fuel now, when before you were pulling fuel off the stock fuel map. Have you changed anything else on the fic or is it completely off the stock ecu like a safc would be with no corrections? No timing changes or anything?

Thats EXACTLY what I'm thinking... I haven't changed anything on the FI/C, no timing cahnges, nothing...

you've got to plug into your ecu and see what your long term fuel trims are, that's what's going to correct fuel for you

gurov wrote:

you've got to plug into your ecu and see what your long term fuel trims are, that's what's going to correct fuel for you

Besides wouldn't the long term fuel trims reset every time I shut the car off with the pin 121 cut??

kc03spec-v wrote:

what are the fuel trims?

good question... how do I find out?

Kurt, you are the only one who has some experience with the FI/C, please help me shed some light on this... I really dont understand what is going on...

Last edited by Black04SpecV (2008-09-29 01:33:07)

If it was me I wouldn't even bother with theories and all that BS I would just go ahead and tune the car and see what it does.

mjeffries wrote:

armandotech wrote:

If it was me I wouldn't even bother with theories and all that BS I would just go ahead and tune the car and see what it does.

I disagree; but I'm not an expert by any means.

I'm having a very similar problem.  From what I've read in this thread Black04SpecV had an SAFCII and if he had 0 for all of his corrections he was running very rich.  In other words, the SAFC wasn't doing jack (0 corrections) and the ECU alone was making the car run rich.  He swapped out the SAFC for an F/IC.  Even though they manipulate the fuel trim through different methods a 0 correction on each will yield the same results; 100% ECU and the car should still run just as rich as when the SAFC was hooked up.  That is what SHOULD be happening right now but it isn't. 

With that in mind, tuning the car with the F/IC isn't going to do anything but mask the real problem; whatever that may be. 

My advice is to log your fuel pressure at idle and at WOT, and try to do this over the course of a few days or so.  That should help to narrow down the list of suspects.  I'm going to do the same as soon as I have the equipment.

I found out what my REAL problem is... It is the motherfucking piece of shit self learning specV ECU... Today I took the car to the gym after it sat for a good 24 hours and I had nice 10.0 AFR at WOT after the turbo spooled. Mind that my ECU pin 121 is cut so the ECU resets its fuel trims after a certain period of time after I shut the car off... Same thing as unplugging the battery overnight.

What I'm getting to is that the specV ECU makes adjustments to its fuel trims, than I make adjustments with the FI/C throwing everything out of whack.

My next step is to unplug both o2 sensors and tune it only with the FI/C...

IMHO for boosted SpecV to be tuned properly the ECU has to be out of the loop completely.

The best solution for boosted specv's is the megasquirt with external trigger wheel so you can control ignition and fuel completely without the specV ECU...

Last edited by Black04SpecV (2008-09-29 13:28:32)

I agree with J, and I don't see what all the fuss is about. I think alot of ppl have alot of trouble because they screw with their car too much. So what the tune drifts a little. As long as you have a wideband and keep an eye on your afr's, there isn't any reason why you can't make adjustments yourself. I believe that resetting your ECU everyday or whatever is what is causing you problems. Your car shouldn't run PIG RICH with 0 corrections as long as your giving the ECU the opportunity to make changes on it's own. Like I said my corrections are at -5 ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE BOARD, and my car does not run extremely rich. I don't think another +5 amount of correction is gonna make that big of a difference. I only have one of my cars original 02 sensors plugged up.

you still have to tune the megasquirt. And if you want all those nice extras you named, be ready to spend quite a bit if time getting it all worked out and running how you want it..megasquirt isnt plug n play

I know that the megasquirt is a fuel management system. But you will have to tune every aspect of it. I've looked into the ms and will be getting it after I am turdbowed.

I was just stating that it will not be a quick tune. You will be tuning for everyday driving also. Not just wot. But maybe you'll get lucky and someone on here will send you what they have for their fuel trims to save you some time.

Big J with ur knowledge of the QRs ECU

What do u think is the best way to tune with neo/safc (open loop) or (closed loop)!! Please explain!!

Big J wrote:

White_Spec-V wrote:

...just for reference, the ecu is actually very good. Not a pos like many believe it to be.

+1

Sure might be, hell I don't know much about the stock ECU. What I know is that I cannot tune it or alter fuel maps on it, so it doesn't work for me...

in that case, good luck! 

Black04SpecV wrote:

05SpecVnBlack wrote:

I agree with J, and I don't see what all the fuss is about. I think alot of ppl have alot of trouble because they screw with their car too much. So what the tune drifts a little. As long as you have a wideband and keep an eye on your afr's, there isn't any reason why you can't make adjustments yourself. I believe that resetting your ECU everyday or whatever is what is causing you problems. Your car shouldn't run PIG RICH with 0 corrections as long as your giving the ECU the opportunity to make changes on it's own. Like I said my corrections are at -5 ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE BOARD, and my car does not run extremely rich. I don't think another +5 amount of correction is gonna make that