buller...buller... anyone?

Fucking plugs faggot.


check them, and then holler me.

ill be out tonight, so call me or text me

05redser wrote:

I love my tru boost what do you have the spring set at? If you are trying to run 10psi (on the treadstone turbo kit) I run on B setting with 58-60% depending on the weather and I set the spring to 8.00PSI (I have a 5PSI wastegate spring).

But I get the same problem that you describe right around 5500rpms it starts to get lean and then at 6000 I get a backfire once in a while, I cleaned my maf added more fuel subtracted more fuel and nothing works. Ima try get new plugs too even though the NGK-r's only have like 3000miles on them.

Have you tried to reset the ecu?

Get new plugs...

You are not starving the car outta fuel at 10psi with 440's and Walbro 255... Mind I ran 10psi with STOCK fuel pump and 440's...

Is your TRU-BOOST solenoid connected to your wastegate EXACTLY like it shows in the TRU-BOOST manual?

specv118 wrote:

Black04SpecV wrote:

Get new plugs...

You are not starving the car outta fuel at 10psi with 440's and Walbro 255... Mind I ran 10psi with STOCK fuel pump and 440's...

Is your TRU-BOOST solenoid connected to your wastegate EXACTLY like it shows in the TRU-BOOST manual?

Going to put in new plugs when i change the oil(im broke atm). I turned the solenoid off last night and it was running 7psi-7.5psi (trying to open the wastegate spring to 8psi it seemed like) which i thought it cant do but was a good thing(the tune is dead fucking nutz atm), the car ran perfect last night. no problems at all.

i believe the tru-boost is hooked up right i remember looking at it and stuff before hand and i think it was was right. ill double check again tho. doesnt hurt.

If the TRU-BOOST still doesn't cooperate you can try posting your problem at AEM Forums... LINK --> http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.p … board=75.0

The admins are pretty helpful there... If you want I can also post for you (I'm member there), just pm me what you want me to post...

05redser wrote:

kc03spec-v wrote:

05redser wrote:

I love my tru boost what do you have the spring set at? If you are trying to run 10psi (on the treadstone turbo kit) I run on B setting with 58-60% depending on the weather and I set the spring to 8.00PSI (I have a 5PSI wastegate spring).

But I get the same problem that you describe right around 5500rpms it starts to get lean and then at 6000 I get a backfire once in a while, I cleaned my maf added more fuel subtracted more fuel and nothing works. Ima try get new plugs too even though the NGK-r's only have like 3000miles on them.

Have you tried to reset the ecu?

Yea. I did it 2 different ways. First I took of the pos and neg cable over night and it was running SUPER rich until the ecu logged long term fuel trims and then it ran good for awhile and then I got the getting lean around 5500 for a couple times then it was perfect after I added a little bit of fuel, I think the ECU is jacking with the fuel trims and its trying to make it too rich around redline (my car stock with intake and exhaust ran 10.5-9.8 AFR's at redline untuned.

The second way I did it was turn the key on for 3 seconds then turn the key of for 3 seconds, turn it on for 3 seconds blah blah blah, for 10 times. My friend works for nissan and says that any nissan with drive by wire trottle bodies this procedure will clean anything that the ECU has stored, (fuel maps, maf readings, everything).

Preston if I remember right my tru-boost is setup like this Port 1 goes to top of wastegate and port 2 is bottom of wastegate and port 3 (the side port) has the little brass bead filter on it. Did you make sure to teflon tape all the fittings before you screwd them into the selinoid (yes I cant spell)

Setting A and Setting B are just 2 different boost settings say at the track you want to run 11psi so you set A to 65% duty cycle and for daily driving you want to run 9psi so you set B to 52% duty cycle. And by just pressing the left button for 2 seconds you can cycle through A, B, and OFF.

Im guessing that you have the SPR (wastegate spring setting wrong) The sweet spot for mine for quick spool and no boost spikes is 2psi lower on the spring setting than the boost that I want so if I am running 11psi I set the SPR setting to 8.70-9.00 if you want to run 9psi I would run the SPR at 6.70-7.00.

If you do have the SPR too high you will get crazy boost spikes and it will jump back and forth very randomly, the reason being say you have a 8psi wastegate spring and you have the SPR set at 10.00 the boost selenoid is trying to keep the wategate toltally closed until it reads 10psi and it will never fully reach that because your wategate srping will actually open at 8psi so the seleniod will think it still closed making the boost go crazy.

Try this first set the SPR at 1.00 and set your A setting to 55% make sure you are running A setting though, The way you do this is hold down the left button for 2 seconds until you see setting A, It will cycle through A, B, and OFF. With this set you should see around 9.2-9.8psi.

Ok I think I blabbered enough. Let me know if this helps you out or not. I have a couple more ideas if it doesnt.

my SPR is set at 8.00 for the 8psi spring. but the selinoid is off now and im at 7psi (with a 8psi spring in). ill try turning that down 2psi and setting A to something and testing.

ummm ill get back to you soon

thank you

05redser wrote:

specv118 wrote:

05redser wrote:

Yea. I did it 2 different ways. First I took of the pos and neg cable over night and it was running SUPER rich until the ecu logged long term fuel trims and then it ran good for awhile and then I got the getting lean around 5500 for a couple times then it was perfect after I added a little bit of fuel, I think the ECU is jacking with the fuel trims and its trying to make it too rich around redline (my car stock with intake and exhaust ran 10.5-9.8 AFR's at redline untuned.

The second way I did it was turn the key on for 3 seconds then turn the key of for 3 seconds, turn it on for 3 seconds blah blah blah, for 10 times. My friend works for nissan and says that any nissan with drive by wire trottle bodies this procedure will clean anything that the ECU has stored, (fuel maps, maf readings, everything).

Preston if I remember right my tru-boost is setup like this Port 1 goes to top of wastegate and port 2 is bottom of wastegate and port 3 (the side port) has the little brass bead filter on it. Did you make sure to teflon tape all the fittings before you screwd them into the selinoid (yes I cant spell)

Setting A and Setting B are just 2 different boost settings say at the track you want to run 11psi so you set A to 65% duty cycle and for daily driving you want to run 9psi so you set B to 52% duty cycle. And by just pressing the left button for 2 seconds you can cycle through A, B, and OFF.

Im guessing that you have the SPR (wastegate spring setting wrong) The sweet spot for mine for quick spool and no boost spikes is 2psi lower on the spring setting than the boost that I want so if I am running 11psi I set the SPR setting to 8.70-9.00 if you want to run 9psi I would run the SPR at 6.70-7.00.

If you do have the SPR too high you will get crazy boost spikes and it will jump back and forth very randomly, the reason being say you have a 8psi wastegate spring and you have the SPR set at 10.00 the boost selenoid is trying to keep the wategate toltally closed until it reads 10psi and it will never fully reach that because your wategate srping will actually open at 8psi so the seleniod will think it still closed making the boost go crazy.

Try this first set the SPR at 1.00 and set your A setting to 55% make sure you are running A setting though, The way you do this is hold down the left button for 2 seconds until you see setting A, It will cycle through A, B, and OFF. With this set you should see around 9.2-9.8psi.

Ok I think I blabbered enough. Let me know if this helps you out or not. I have a couple more ideas if it doesnt.

my SPR is set at 8.00 for the 8psi spring. but the selinoid is off now and im at 7psi (with a 8psi spring in). ill try turning that down 2psi and setting A to something and testing.

ummm ill get back to you soon

thank you

Yea set your SPR to 6.00 or so because with an 8psi spring you will only see about 6.8-7.4 PSI due to intercooler loss, the spring jumping back and forth, boost leaks etc etc...

i figured as much, i was only seeing that. so set it and turn the selinoid back on and play?

i just woke up from a migraine so im outta it still.

Im going to turn the SPR down to 6.00 and then turn the controller on and leave it at A10% and see if i was getting the same issues as before. Cuz wouldnt SPR@6.00 and the boost setting A @ A10 only be wastegate spring or close to it and not l9-10psi?

Black04SpecV wrote:

Where is your solenoid mounted? I hope its not close to your hot parts assembly... Having the solenoid close to ANY heat source will fry it very, very fast...

and i bet thats why its not workings, it sits next to the motor less then 5inch from the compressor side of the turbo.

so its toast i bet.


that would of explain it all.

Time to go back to the shop and make them pay for a new one, and tell them i no longer owe them money.

Last edited by specv118 (2008-09-23 14:00:47)

specv118 wrote:

Black04SpecV wrote:

Where is your solenoid mounted? I hope its not close to your hot parts assembly... Having the solenoid close to ANY heat source will fry it very, very fast...

and i bet thats why its not workings, it sits next to the motor less then 5inch from the compressor side of the turbo.

so its toast i bet.


that would of explain it all.

Time to go back to the shop and make them pay for a new one, and tell them i no longer owe them money.

Yup that's exactly your problem... Your solenoid is done...

My solenoid sits behind the coolant overflow tank, far, far away from the hot parts assembly...

If you need any proof when you go to the shop. I can give you links to threads on AEM FORUM describing the same exact problem...

Black04SpecV wrote:

specv118 wrote:

Black04SpecV wrote:

Where is your solenoid mounted? I hope its not close to your hot parts assembly... Having the solenoid close to ANY heat source will fry it very, very fast...

and i bet thats why its not workings, it sits next to the motor less then 5inch from the compressor side of the turbo.

so its toast i bet.


that would of explain it all.

Time to go back to the shop and make them pay for a new one, and tell them i no longer owe them money.

Yup that's exactly your problem... Your solenoid is done...

My solenoid sits behind the coolant overflow tank, far, far away from the hot parts assembly...

If you need any proof when you go to the shop. I can give you links to threads on AEM FORUM describing the same exact problem...

Tony PM me everything you can so i can prove them that.

I am so pissed off at the moment cuz of this its retarded.

Anyways, when i get this new selinoid im putting it where you have it.

That is exactly where I put my selenoid and its fine, but I also have a turbo beanie that lowers underhood temps ALOT.

Before you go back to the shop its worth a shot to try it. with an 8psi wastegate spring you will not see a change in boost until around 35-40% duty cycle. So yes if you have A setting on 10% duty cycle you will just be running the wastegate spring pressure.

Too bad you didnt live in cali I could show you everything.