
Joe
Took about 4 hrs to do the installation, would have been 3 or less had I not gotten crappy spring compressors from auto-zone. Lets look at the results, and I will do an installation write-up below the pics. the "After" pics were taken after driving once around the block.
- --- BEFORE FRONT --- --- AFTER FRONT ---



- --- BEFORE REAR --- --- AFTER REAR ---



--- Impressions ---
Looks is obviously improved. You can see form the tape-measure pics that the front was dropped close to an inch and a half, rear about an inch. After the springs settle I'll see how the measurements change. The handling is definitely improved, and the ride didn't feel any rougher. body-roll was decreased which you can feel on the road.
--- The Installation ---
Tools Needed:
- Hydraulic Jack
- 2+ Jack-stands
- strut-spring compressor
- various ratchets and sockets
- hammer (to lightly tap out bolts that are tight)
- Flathead screwdriver
- impact wrench
Steps:
1) take before pictures, people like to see them =P
2) pop the hood and start removing the windshield wipers and wiper cowl
a) there are going to be 2 nuts you remove from the windshield wipers, the wipers are not easy to remove, so just be careful with them
b) there are numerous clips you need to remove with the flathead along the cowl
c) the cowl comes off in 2 pieces. once you have them off, just lay them on the engine
3) jack up the front of the car and put it on jack-stands for safety
4) remove the wheels to gain access to the struts
5) remove the bottom end of the struts
a) first, remove the sensor wiring clips on each side of the strut. they just slide off
b) remove the brake-line clip, this will probably require a flathead screwdriver and hammer tapping to break loose
c) remove the stabilizer bar bolt, I believe it is an 18mm nut
d) remove the 2 main bolts holding the spindle to the strut, I suggest having something to set the spindle on
6) remove the top end of the struts
a) remove the harder bolts first, so the last one you remove is the easy one
b) you will need a box-wrench for the one hiding against the firewall, and a swivel extension for your ratchet for the wiper cowl bolt
c) before removing the last bolt, get a friend to hold the strut while you pull it off, so it doesn't just drop
7) get out the spring compressor, this is the part that makes your arms tired
a) get as many coils as you can on the compressor, it makes it a little easier to compress
b) compress the stock springs until you can feel a little play in the assembly
c) use the impact wrench to remove the nut from the top end of the strut
d) remove the spring from the strut and slowly decompress the spring
e) now use the spring compressor on the new springs. test fit with the compressor on and check clearances
f) compress the spring enough to get the threads through the top spring collar
g) use the impact wrench to get the nut back on, make sure you get it on enough to see the threads come through the nut
h) slowly decompress the spring until you can remove the spring compressor
i) use the impact wrench to tighten the top nut, it shouldn't need much more effort at this point
8) yay, they hard part is done, now do the previous steps in reverse to put the front back together!
rears:
if you thought the fronts were a pain in the ass, wait til you get here (sarcasm, if this takes you more than 30 mins you drank too much doing the fronts)
1) jack up the rear, use jack stands so you can free up the jack to compress the suspension
2) remove the wheels, you should see the bottom shock mount along with the spring very close to it
3) Use the jack to compress one side of the suspension
4) remove the bottom shock mount
a) break loose the nut and remove it.
b) if you can't get the bolt out, use the jack to adjust the tension on the suspension until it slides out easily
5) remove the jack from the suspension and use it to jack up the other side and repeat step 4
6) on the second side, just drop the jack down far enough to get the springs out on both sides
7) replace both springs with the new ones and jack the suspension up enough to get the shock bolt on
8) put your wheels back on and drop it down from the jacks
9) make sure your lugs are tight and take your first spin around the block before you take your after pics
if I missed anything, let me know, but that should be everything.
Last edited by Caravanshaka (2008-09-21 20:13:06)
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got a full view pic of the car before and after??
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Joe
closest I have for before and after. Though everyone has seen a spec-V before, so that is nothin new. I can get more pics of after as soon as I get my new wheels.
--- before --- --- after ---

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Greg


Good write-up. Sticky-icky-ing.
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Joe
LittleRedMachine wrote:
Good write-up. Sticky-icky-ing.
Thx for the stickiness 
Last edited by Caravanshaka (2008-09-21 20:26:37)
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Jeremiah


make sure you get an alignment. You probably changed your camber/caster.

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Joe
most people with the pro-kits haven't had much trouble with alignment, but either way you want to give it a couple weeks to let the springs settle before getting it aligned.
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Kevin



Is an impact wrench a complete must have? Or does it just make it easier?
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jeremy


geezus.. the wheels are huuuuuuuuuuge!! they are begging for those 19" nismo wheels!!!
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Joe
dirtyV wrote:
Is an impact wrench a complete must have? Or does it just make it easier?
you'd have to ask some others that did the install if they used one. I'm not sure how you would get the shock collar of the shock without one though. if you use a ratchet the shaft just spins with the nut so you can't break it loose. I guess you might be able to compress the spring on the car and undo the shock collar while the pillow ball mounts are still attached to the car (the pillow ball mount spins with the shaft, so locking that in place locks the shaft in place). but it would be about 18x easier to just have an impact wrench available to take off and put on that nut. Not to mention it's nice to have for tightening and loosening the spring compressor.
oh, and yes the 17's look too small. those nismo's are definitely tempting, but so is the '66 mustang project car I just found, and I might be putting money into that instead 
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Joe
btw, doing a quick measurement, seems the front has settled about another 1/4", while the rear has remained nearly the same. This is after about 200 miles of driving.
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