







B15 rod is on the left, 07+ on the right





(pictures courtesy of fun times)

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline

Jeff



they arent THAT significantly different. im wondering if now i need rods for 450+ whp
Offline

Daniel




I don't think its the size...I think it's the material.
Offline








I dunno, it me, they look a lot different and beefier. And they attach differently to the crank.

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline

gennady gurov







right, supposedly they attach differently to the crank, i'll do a full write on these once we get ours.

Online

Jeremiah

cute02spec wrote:
I dunno, it me, they look a lot different and beefier. And they attach differently to the crank.
How are they attaching to the crank differently?
Offline

Jesse



I agree with Jeff, deff not the difference i had pictured in my head
Offline

gennady gurov







STOPSpec wrote:
cute02spec wrote:
I dunno, it me, they look a lot different and beefier. And they attach differently to the crank.
How are they attaching to the crank differently?
the diagram shows bolts going through the top of the big end down to the cap. not a bolt that goes into the bigend.
again, that needs to be confirmed, those those pictures don't really do much

Online








I think people were expecting some drastic stock vs. Crower type of thing... they're still a stock production rod... still beefier and higher quality, but of course not as beefy as custom rods that cost $600-800 for one set.

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline

Hector Vera

So you recomended , If I go turbo and I have the oportunity to change the rods and cam get the 2007 . The springs : the B16 or vq35hr. All those parts are direct swap.
Offline

Don



hxv00p wrote:
So you recomended , If I go turbo and I have the oportunity to change the rods and cam get the 2007 . The springs : the B16 or vq35hr. All those parts are direct swap.
The VQ35HR springs are not a direct swap. They bind too quickly cause the install height is lower on the QR. Other VQ35DE springs however, will work.
Edit: the B16 springs are the same specs as the B15 ones are.
Last edited by donspecv02 (2008-09-04 14:10:47)
Offline

Hector Vera

I check in courtesyparts.com and they have:
SENTRA SPEC-V 2007 rod sku# 10101-B16u001 $ 71.55 ea.=$286.20 + shipping
SENTRA SPEC-V 2007 cams sku# 13020-B16u002 $ 188.21 +shipping
VQ35DE springs sku# 13203-233002 $ 5.07 ea=$81.12 + shipping
If anyone can verify if I get correct parts 
Offline

Jeremiah

You can get the 07+ rods about $10 cheaper per rod other places. I am not sure about the rest.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ … eid=214577
http://www.factorynissanparts.com/partl … atalogid=0
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ … eid=214459 FREE SHIPPING
Last edited by STOPSpec (2008-09-05 20:35:32)
Offline

ror



hxv00p wrote:
I check in courtesyparts.com and they have:
SENTRA SPEC-V 2007 rod sku# 10101-B16u001 $ 71.55 ea.=$286.20 + shipping
SENTRA SPEC-V 2007 cams sku# 13020-B16u002 $ 188.21 +shipping
VQ35DE springs sku# 13203-233002 $ 5.07 ea=$81.12 + shipping
If anyone can verify if I get correct parts
if you want em that bad, i can get em for 220+tax shipping and paypal(i dunno mayb will be an extra 15-20 bucks total?)
directly from nissan, cuz of a homie hookup
and i wont make any money off you, im not like that, ill pass on the homie hookup for you

Online

So Hungry I could ride a horse



dont the hr VQ springs bind? I thought that was something that came out of the Gurov/Heidi and Nissan Sport build. Maybe my memory serves me wrong.
Offline

Adam


Big J wrote:
The rods are reinforced in all the areas that count. The side profile alone is an amazing improvment. If you get hook up pricing, they are less than $50 apiece, which means you could pick up 3-4 SETS for what an aftermarket rod set costs. The first gen rods will support well into the 300hp and 300ft/lbs range with good tuning, they are made from a very good chrommoly steel alloy, that's the main reason the little weinny rods do so well. If you do the math that so many people hate, there is about a 100% increases in tensile loads making the jump from 6200 to a 7000 rpm redline. The main force designers look at are tensile loads because they are the highest the rods sees. The compressive force created by the turbo doesn't come close to the tensile loads near TDC on the the exhaust stroke. Because the rods are designed to deal with an extra 100% or so increase in tensile loads, they will fare better in most aspects and should support 400ft/lbs. My $.02. I plan to use these rods exclusivly when I build motors for my personal cars. They are forged chromemolly steel rods.
Hey so your saying that these rods should be able to support up to 400HP or no?
Offline

clay



look at the wristpin area, the side profile and the bottom of the beam.
thats a large difference imo.
Offline








BLKSpecV101 wrote:
Big J wrote:
The rods are reinforced in all the areas that count. The side profile alone is an amazing improvment. If you get hook up pricing, they are less than $50 apiece, which means you could pick up 3-4 SETS for what an aftermarket rod set costs. The first gen rods will support well into the 300hp and 300ft/lbs range with good tuning, they are made from a very good chrommoly steel alloy, that's the main reason the little weinny rods do so well. If you do the math that so many people hate, there is about a 100% increases in tensile loads making the jump from 6200 to a 7000 rpm redline. The main force designers look at are tensile loads because they are the highest the rods sees. The compressive force created by the turbo doesn't come close to the tensile loads near TDC on the the exhaust stroke. Because the rods are designed to deal with an extra 100% or so increase in tensile loads, they will fare better in most aspects and should support 400ft/lbs. My $.02. I plan to use these rods exclusivly when I build motors for my personal cars. They are forged chromemolly steel rods.
Hey so your saying that these rods should be able to support up to 400HP or no?
They should be able to support well past 400whp.
pimpsmurf has been running 18psi on his for awhile... I think he'd go higher but ran into MAF issues.

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline








Big J wrote:
Most turbo QR motors die from piston ring land (or head gasket, mainly 2002-early 2004 build dates) failures (bad tuning), not rod failures.
i've been meaning to say that...
that's a HUGE myth about how it's always the rods... and then last night when I was looking at my rods I got to thinking about all the blown engines I've seen, turbo or none, with the QR... and the major things were headgaskets and piston stuff... maybe a few spun bearings due to people being retards with oil...

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline

James




I spun a bearing on my first QR. 2nd one I broke a rod in half, sawed through both sides(front and back) of the block on piston 1. I gave up on the QR after the second motor(and an expired warrenty
).

Offline

Jeremiah

Big J wrote:
cute02spec wrote:
Big J wrote:
Most turbo QR motors die from piston ring land (or head gasket, mainly 2002-early 2004 build dates) failures (bad tuning), not rod failures.
i've been meaning to say that...
that's a HUGE myth about how it's always the rods... and then last night when I was looking at my rods I got to thinking about all the blown engines I've seen, turbo or none, with the QR... and the major things were headgaskets and piston stuff... maybe a few spun bearings due to people being retards with oil...The QR is great once you bolt on a turbo. The valves don't melt, the cylinders don't crack, the crank doesn't break or walk, the motor doesn't overheat with the stock cooling system, the ECU does a very good job of handling timing and fuel if you stay with injectors under 600cc, the transmission and clutch hold well to twice the stock HP and TQ (on the street), the rods don't snap (often). Once an inexpensive piston solution pops up its golden, the pistons are the weakest link to this motor. There might be a factory piston that will work well with higher boost levels and no timing control, I've just got to get my hands on one to see.
What is the main issues with the factory pistons? Is it actually the piston or the rings?
Offline

Adam




problem with the pistons is both... weak ring lands means that bad tuning can cause it to crack which will directly cause problems to the piston rings if I'm not mistaken... becuz nissan decided to move the first compression ring higher on the piston( emissions related[ trap for hydrocarbons]) there isnt alot of meat there and under alot of heat and load can crack or worse

Offline

Jeremiah

Would coating (TBC) the top of the factory piston help much, and of course a set of Total seal rings.
Offline








^^ gurov was going to look into getting all of our pistons coated. i will have to check if that's still going to happen...

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline

clay



i dont think itd help the weak ringlands, maybe to add some heat protection,
Offline

Jeremiah

cute02spec wrote:
^^ gurov was going to look into getting all of our pistons coated. i will have to check if that's still going to happen...
Are you still using factory pistons? I am probably wrong, but I was thinking that reflecting the heat off of the piston instead of the piston absorbing the heat would help against cracking. i don't know, just aa thought.
Offline








yep, we're keeping factory pistons for the time being.

Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline

ror



all the cool kids have forged low compression pistons 

Online








omar wrote:
all the cool kids have forged low compression pistons
must be nice on the 


Snailed and Built (in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2191509 Offline

ror



its the bandsentra okay, which just so happens to be boosted and built haha

Online

C-dizzle


so do these 07+ pistons swap straight into the 04-06 specv blocks or is there more to this then just buying them and bolting them in
Offline

Boost..Coming soon



blackout_V wrote:
so do these 07+ pistons swap straight into the 04-06 specv blocks or is there more to this then just buying them and bolting them in
+1??
Last edited by SE-R RACER (2008-12-04 07:14:22)
Offline

Tony






SE-R RACER wrote:
blackout_V wrote:
so do these 07+ pistons swap straight into the 04-06 specv blocks or is there more to this then just buying them and bolting them in
+1??
Wait I thought you guys are talking about rods... I have no clue about the pistons, but i know that the rods are straight swap...
Online


will the 07 rods work on a 02spec v? i have a 04 v and blew the engine and i swapped a 02 in. i hope i can still use the 07 rods
Offline

Daniel




Yes.
Offline