
Nate W.

Okay, so even though I didnt get any feed back on my questions about known issues with installing the Sport Line springs from Eibach, I decided to install them anyways and post everything I found out in one handy thread so if there is anyone else out there looking to do this, they dont have to spend 3 hours surfing the forums to find what info they need.
The springs themselves are an excellent product and I ran into no issues installing the springs themselves.
-Note- You do have to take off the plastic cover around the windsheild wipers and the metal guard under that to get at your 3rd strut tower bolt.
-Note- A good spring compressor is your friend, find one, learn how to use it, and love it.
-Note- The camber bolts you need to purchase are 14mm and MAY need to have the nylon eccentric sanded down slightly to get them to fit well.
The only thing that people seem to be having real problems with is getting proper alignment after the kit is installed. SO, here is what I did and it worked out very nicely:
I went to a local Advance Auto and asked for camber bolts for the front, and found out that not only do they offer these (about $15 a piece) but they also offer rear shims to properly align the rear of the car. (the front camber bolts were Moog brand I believe)... I bought the camber bolts and was a little disappointed when they didnt just slide in and I actually had to sand down the nylon eccentric that slides over the bolts till I came up with a fit that was tight enough to not twist when you turn the bolt, but also not so tight that the nylon wouldnt go in the hole with the bolt. After I managed to get these in I took the car to a local alignment garage and had him set up the car as good as he could (he coudnt get the front camber to move, but that was because he forgot to loosen the bottom stut bolt along with the eccentric that is installed in the upper bolt), and the car dialed in nicely in the front. He gave me a print-out of the rear, and found out that the back was toed-in 1 degree and the camber was 1.1 degrees out of spec. I went back to my buddy at Advance, ordered the necessary shims, which fit perfectly, took the car back to the garage today and had him give me another read out. Somehow I've managed to lose the paper in the last 3 hours so I dont have exact numbers to give you (
). I do know that the front was within .05 of a degree on the camber and the toe angle was perfect. The rear ended up being somewhere less that .25 degrees out of camber and the toe angle was out less that the camber was. The tech told me that hes seen brand new cars come in that arent lined up as well as mine.
So with the headache of alignment behind me and out of my head I took the car out for a drive and found the spring-rates to be quite pleasurable. They are NOT as harsh as some people on the site make them out to be, but are definately stiffer than stock. The car is extremely responsive on turn-in now, with considerably less understeer mid-corner. I have never been so happy with an aftermarket suspension set up ever before, especially considering all this happened with less than $500 in hand when I started, and I had cash left over to feed the gas tank when I was done.
I did manage to find out as well (just to give you goofballs some options) that Eibach offers camber bolts for the Spec V. Also a company named SPC Performance offers shims for the rear as well as camber bolts. I dont know much about these products other than they are listed for our car.
So there you have it folks, no more reasons to be afraid of budget-effective suspension enhancements because of complications. It takes a little more than on other cars because some idiot at Nissan decided that we shouldnt have any alignment options other than toe in\out, but IT CAN BE DONE. Just take your time, be patient, buy quality parts, and you'll not be disappointed.
Hope this helps, Ill answer any questions I can.
















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Evan


let's see some pics, I'm debating the pro-kit over the sportlines, I want a decent drop, but I also don't want to go to low as I have the front lip and have one hell of a driveway.
The pro-kit just doesn't seem to have the right drop for me.
And I'm not made of money for coilovers 
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Brian


So how does camber change in the rear with the strait bar going across there?

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camber on a car will change overtime regardless.
think of a piece of wood being tapped or scratched, eventually it will show wear.
or a long beam with tension.
the car is made to be in alignment as it came from the factory, and when you lower it must compensate to the alignment settings, therefore throwing your car off balance.

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