
jarrett

alright guys, you've been hitting big j up for a how-to on this for the past week, well, as we all know, he's a busy guy, and we can't expect him to do all the work for us, can we? hell no, so i did it so he wouldn't have to.
the known tools needed:
14mm wrench
adjustable wrench
17mm wrench
19mm wrench
small allen key, very small.
various screwdrivers, small flatheads
10mm wrench
10mm normal socket 1/4 drive
small extension
10mm deep socket, not a must, but sure helpful
rtv gasket maker (silicon hi-temp)
pliers
small razor blade
there's probably more, and some may not be needed, i just put what i remember using, i think. lol
alright, here we go...
for starters, make sure you know what the intake cam is when you get them in the mail or out of whatever
be sure to notice the signal plate on the end
preliminaries:
1. put car in neutral, pull up e-brake
2. disconnect negative battery cable
3. remove the engine cover (3 bolts 10mm)
4. crawl under the car, and remove the 3 rivets or bolts that are holding on the small piece of plastic that protects your belt, circled in red in the following pic:
5. now, take your 14mm wrench and have a buddy under the hood, place your wrench on the bolt on your belt tensioner pulley (second one up) and pull downward on it, while he pulls the belt away.
step 1:
remove the 4 bolts circled in red, these hold the ignition coils in place, pull the coils out, and know which one goes on which spark plug. Then remove the ten bolts circled in green, these hold the valve cover on, make sure you don't lose any of the
bolts. remove the vacuum hose circled also.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/ … emoval.jpg
step 2:
proceed to pull the valve cover off of the head, the gasket should come with it. notice the 4 bearing caps, they're circled, 8 bolts total, don't remove them yet, just make sure you know what they are.
step 3:
remove the plug connected to the brass looking cylinder, and the two ground wires, it's all circled
step 4:
remove the bolts holding on the timing cover, here's the pic from the fsm. use something very thin to pry the cover away from the motor, do this slowly, because there are pins holding it in, and you can't just pull it out in one direction, my advice is
to pry it a bit, take your razor and scrape inside, pry more, continue, it's easy once you figure out you're not breaking stuff, lol.
step 5:
now that you can see the cam gears and timing chain, use a wrench and turn the crank pulley until your cam gear's timing marks and your timing marks on the chain line up (these are yellow links, can't miss em) one this has occured, all valves on the 1st
cyl should be down and the cam lobes should be pointed in the direction pictured. removing the spark plugs will make turning the motor over MUCH easier
now, break loose the bolt on the exhaust cam gear, use your adjustable to hold the cam, circled in red, DO NOT use the chain to break this loose. and do no remove the bolt completely yet.
step 6:
use a small screwdriver to push back the tensioner and then insert your small allen wrench into the tiny hole on the tensioner, to hold the tensioner piston in place, there should be a notch on it that you can use to hold it.
it's in the bottom left
step 7:
once the tensioner is secure, go ahead and remove the gear and pull the chain away from that single gear.
step 8:
go ahead and remove all of the bearing caps, slowly, as in, break them all loose, then remove them. next there are 3 10mm bolts on the top of the timing cover assembly, remove those. then there are a few more inside the actuall assembly that hold the
top of the assembly on, once all of those are removed you should be able to pry the top of the assembly off
circled in red are the 3 bolts that hold the top on, like i said there are more on the inside of the assembly, i just don't have a pic.
step 9:
once all of this is done you should be able to pull the camshaft out of the head, take note of where the lobes are located. install your new intake cam in the exhaust's place and place the lobes according to how raised the valves are, it should be right
in line with the old location.
step 10:
pour oil over the cam bearings, where the caps go, and reinstall the caps, slowly, do not tighten any of the hard until after they are all snug, then tighten then, but not too much, you can over tighten these.
step 11:
scrape the old grey rtv silicon off of the timing covers, and reapply new silicon, place the top assembly cover back over top of the camshaft and insert all of the bolts. Place the sprocket back in it's place, and move the cam, slowly until it lines up
with the dowel pins on the end of it line up with the slot in the sprocket. Once this is done, find out where the stock timing mark is on the sprocket (nissan usually cuts a little notch out, or a scratch of some sort) but instead of lining this up, move
the sprocket clockwise 6 teeth and place the yellow link 6 teeth away from the stock location. once this is accomplished tighten the cam sprocket bolt. and remove your allen key from the tensioner
step 12:
install the timing cover (after silicon is applied), plug, and the ground wires. put your spark plugs back in if you removed them, and reinstall the valve cover, vacuum hose, and the ignition coils. climb under the car, and loosen the belt tensioner and
reinstall the belt. put the lower plastic cover back on and reconnect the battery.
give the silicon a while to setup, then it should be safe to start the car back up
someone please let me know if i missed anything or said it wrong, i'm trying to work off of pure memory here, and in a hurry, so someone feel free to give any change suggestions.
Last edited by jarrett2k (2008-08-17 13:41:41)
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Chris


sounds about right to me
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Batman



Nicely done

stickied






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Batman



Side note for torque specs and sequences since I'm a stickler for that kinda stuff
Valve cover removal: 
Valve cover install w/ torque specs:
Camshaft removal:
Camshaft bracket tightening sequence and torque specs:
Camshaft diagram exploded view:
FEEL FREE TO ADD THEM TO YOUR ORIGINAL POST
Last edited by saint0421 (2008-08-17 13:34:56)






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jarrett

saint0421 wrote:
Side note for torque specs and sequences since I'm a stickler for that kinda stuff
Valve cover removal:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/ … emoval.jpg
Valve cover install w/ torque specs:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/ … nstall.jpg
Camshaft removal:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/ … emoval.jpg
Camshaft bracket tightening sequence and torque specs:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/ … tening.jpg
Camshaft diagram exploded view:
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/ … edview.jpg
FEEL FREE TO ADD THEM TO YOUR ORIGINAL POST
lol, i forgot to add all that, thanks, i'm pretty sure your post is close enough to the writeup for anyone to see it
, not really i'm just lazy, lmao.
Last edited by jarrett2k (2008-08-17 17:21:39)
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Beelzabub




Very helpful!
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Any SES light?

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Adam

torque everything! this is not an area you want to mess around. You may not find out you fudged something for a couple of months but it will be catastrophic when you do
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jarrett

KingDNH wrote:
Any SES light?
i've always had one, so i wouldn't know
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gennady gurov







and please, for fuck's sake, the torque numbers are in inch pounds, not foot pounds. don't torque the cam caps over 10 foot pounds.

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Chris


looks like i need a smaller inch pound tq wrench
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Chris


I may sound like an idiot. But what exactly does this do?
Is this using a stock Intake cam and putting it in the exhaust cam spot... so basicly you would have two intake cams? Does this make more top end power or something. If so I would like to know if the stock intake cam would work, because I have another set of stock cams just sitting.
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Travis


TooMuchPower wrote:
I may sound like an idiot. But what exactly does this do?
Is this using a stock Intake cam and putting it in the exhaust cam spot... so basicly you would have two intake cams? Does this make more top end power or something. If so I would like to know if the stock intake cam would work, because I have another set of stock cams just sitting.
thats what they're doing, stock intake cam in place of exhaust cam. thus running 2 stock intake cams.
Last edited by sharpmaxell (2008-08-18 14:23:41)

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Chris


O.k thanks for answering that part! Im still wondering what does this do power wise? Does it make upper RPM power any better?
Last edited by TooMuchPower (2008-08-18 16:37:23)
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Chris


we are waiting on the dyno..should be any day this week i think tomorrow....but it definitly helps top end power
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jarrett

TooMuchPower wrote:
O.k thanks for answering that part! Im still wondering what does this do power wise? Does it make upper RPM power any better?
even at 5 teeth off like i have mine, which has been proven to be less effective than 6 teeth off, it pulls MUCH better than stock, from 4k up you notice a huge difference
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Don



Yeah, it definitely has more top end power. We tried 6 teeth first, and then 5 teeth. We definitely made more power at 6 teeth based on the butt dyno and my datalogging files overlayed. The only real danger is high EGT's on turbo cars (has not been tested yet). N/A it's not going to get hot enough, if it did, I would've already melted a valve. Since this mod, we heat wrapped my coolant crossover pipe and the header to guard against heat transfer from the hot ass header. I can't wait to dyno the car on Wednesday, because it definitely made power. There's just a question of how much and where.
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Ivan


what time is the dyno---make sure to take some pic's-- cant' wait --- good job "BIg J "
Anytime your in Orlando I'll buy you a beer>>
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Don



Evil-i- wrote:
what time is the dyno---make sure to take some pic's-- cant' wait --- good job "BIg J "
Anytime your in Orlando I'll buy you a beer>>
Dyno is at 4pm. We'll be back by 5:30 and we'll post everything up including videos. We're gonna play with a few other things at the dyno too....................
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Ivan


make it good--- might be able to get close 200hp all motor --
donspecv
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Chris



hmm which way do you turn for f/i

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jarrett

intheshower wrote:
hmm which way do you turn for f/i
undecided yet, it runs to hot on 6 teeth off for now.
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Don



jarrett2k wrote:
intheshower wrote:
hmm which way do you turn for f/i
undecided yet, it runs to hot on 6 teeth off for now.
Yeah, if someone does it, they really need to check their EGT's to make sure they are within tolerances.
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clay



i r on 5
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jarrett

Big J wrote:
jarrett2k wrote:
intheshower wrote:
hmm which way do you turn for f/i
undecided yet, it runs to hot on 6 teeth off for now.
you still on 5 or did you move it to 6
still on 5 for now, i'm moving it probably Thursday
and i have no way of tuning my car, lol
Last edited by jarrett2k (2008-08-18 22:28:13)
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Chris


wow this is a nice find. I live in Nashville ill pay someone to help me with this, Im not talkin chump change either! 
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Jimmy



j call me when you get off the dyno
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jarrett

TooMuchPower wrote:
wow this is a nice find. I live in Nashville ill pay someone to help me with this, Im not talkin chump change either!
feel like driving to VA? lol i'll do it for cheap 
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Carlos Vilarinho


so by changing the exhaust cam to another intake cam....i guess with lobes of course are different...... i want to see this dyno.... and i was wondering if our intake cams can be ground to the specs of a nismo cams without sacrificing strength?
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Jimmy



yuou cant do regrinds with major head work
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Chris



you think s/c would be to egt would be to high to?

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Chris


jarrett2k wrote:
TooMuchPower wrote:
wow this is a nice find. I live in Nashville ill pay someone to help me with this, Im not talkin chump change either!
feel like driving to VA? lol i'll do it for cheap
I would drive to VA and let you do it.. but Justin is going to be installing my cam next weekend and he is 3 hours away vs your 7 hours away 
Just need to figure out where don got his rev limiter increase to 6800 and then ill be good to go.
Thanks tho Jarrett
Last edited by TooMuchPower (2008-08-22 09:41:54)
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Don



TooMuchPower wrote:
jarrett2k wrote:
TooMuchPower wrote:
wow this is a nice find. I live in Nashville ill pay someone to help me with this, Im not talkin chump change either!
feel like driving to VA? lol i'll do it for cheap
I would drive to VA and let you do it.. but Justin is going to be installing my cam next weekend and he is 3 hours away vs your 7 hours away
Just need to figure out where don got his rev limiter increase to 6800 and then ill be good to go.
Thanks tho Jarrett
Technosquare raised the redline. www.technosquareinc.com is the website. You're gonna be at Justin's on the 30th then? I'll probably come by there too so I can meet ya man. I'll probably do the Friday Night Drags the night before at Atlanta Motor Speedway.
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Chris


Good deal man come by and hang out, I will be there on the 30th about 10 a.m.
So for the RPM increase I will have to send my ECU to Technosquare for a couple days?
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Don



TooMuchPower wrote:
Good deal man come by and hang out, I will be there on the 30th about 10 a.m.
So for the RPM increase I will have to send my ECU to Technosquare for a couple days?
Yeah, I did overnight both ways. It's basically a minimum of 3 days downtime. It's $150 + shipping both ways.
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Chris


Just curious how much the overnight shipping was for both ways?
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Don



TooMuchPower wrote:
Just curious how much the overnight shipping was for both ways?
Around $55 each way.
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Kevin Parra

Has this been dyno tested yet?

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Kevin Parra

question?

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so some people say that it runs hot? how hot are we talking. if i do a few cooling mods do you think it will run close to stock temp? im planning on doing this on friday!!
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Batman



Deviousjet wrote:
Has this been dyno tested yet?
yes, it has. . . http://myspecv.com/f/t165441-2-intake-cams-dyno.html






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david
no dyno post yet???
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Batman



saint0421 wrote:
Deviousjet wrote:
Has this been dyno tested yet?
yes, it has. . . http://myspecv.com/f/t165441-2-intake-cams-dyno.html






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