
Anthony



Hey all! I having a problem with my car again...... well when I start it, it just shuts back off. I tried to reset the ECU but no luck. Anybody have any ideas or suggestions?
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JP


Does it fire up and run, or just crank and almost fire up?
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Kurt Kennedy



Fuck mamn.
Give me a call sometime, So we can talk about this, and hopfully get it fixed
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Anthony



kc03spec-v wrote:
Fuck mamn.
Give me a call sometime, So we can talk about this, and hopfully get it fixed
Definetly, ill call you tomorrow around 12!
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Anthony



JP wrote:
Does it fire up and run, or just crank and almost fire up?
Yes it starts up all the way and just drops and shuts back off. Im thinking maybe the TPS or the APP sensor took a shit on me again for the 4th time cause when I try to mash the gas to keep it running the pedal is unresponsive.
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Phill



Might want to pull the codes... but my first guess would be the TPS

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Anthony



SeR-T wrote:
Might want to pull the codes... but my first guess would be the TPS
Im thinking that to, I would like to pull the codes but It wont even drive to autozone lol. If its indeed the TPS then my next question would be why am I on my 3rd TPS at only 69,000 miles?
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Phill



ADspecV wrote:
SeR-T wrote:
Might want to pull the codes... but my first guess would be the TPS
Im thinking that to, I would like to pull the codes but It wont even drive to autozone lol. If its indeed the TPS then my next question would be why am I on my 3rd TPS at only 69,000 miles?
Pull the codes yourself by doing he pedal trick... there's a how to here somewhere...

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Anthony



SeR-T wrote:
ADspecV wrote:
SeR-T wrote:
Might want to pull the codes... but my first guess would be the TPS
Im thinking that to, I would like to pull the codes but It wont even drive to autozone lol. If its indeed the TPS then my next question would be why am I on my 3rd TPS at only 69,000 miles?
Pull the codes yourself by doing he pedal trick... there's a how to here somewhere...
I would have to disconnect my turbo timer lol
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Phill



ADspecV wrote:
SeR-T wrote:
ADspecV wrote:
Im thinking that to, I would like to pull the codes but It wont even drive to autozone lol. If its indeed the TPS then my next question would be why am I on my 3rd TPS at only 69,000 miles?Pull the codes yourself by doing he pedal trick... there's a how to here somewhere...
I would have to disconnect my turbo timer lol
Why would you have to un-install the turbo timer??
1) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
2) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
3) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the MIL (SES) light flashes.
4) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
Look up your code meaning here:
http://www.capitalnissan.ca/forum/index … 288.0.html
You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).

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Kurt Kennedy



Anthony,
With the SAFC, have it on the mode where you can see the MAF inputs and also the TPS voltage.
turn the key to the on pos. Put the car in 1st, and put the pedal to the floor, What does it say?
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Anthony



SeR-T wrote:
ADspecV wrote:
SeR-T wrote:
Pull the codes yourself by doing he pedal trick... there's a how to here somewhere...
I would have to disconnect my turbo timer lol
Why would you have to un-install the turbo timer??
1) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
2) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
3) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the MIL (SES) light flashes.
4) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
Look up your code meaning here:
http://www.capitalnissan.ca/forum/index … 288.0.html
You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).
Oh I meant was that I would have to turn it off to were it wont count down every time the ignition goes from on to off pos. Ill try this tomorrow. But doesnt leaving the ECU unplugged for more then 10min reset the ECU also?
Last edited by ADspecV (2008-08-16 04:01:43)
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Michael




Check to make sure all of your clamps are tight. A few nights ago after I finished my clutch install I had this problem as soon as I got on the interstate. The car stalled out on me and then it would start back up but immediately die. Apparently I had forgotten to tighten one of my clamps all the way and blew the pipe out of it. The MAF was reading a certain amount of air but that air wasn't making it into the engine so the engine was running too rich and stalling out.
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Kurt Kennedy



Give me a call, we will figure it out dude!
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Anthony



mjeffries wrote:
Check to make sure all of your clamps are tight. A few nights ago after I finished my clutch install I had this problem as soon as I got on the interstate. The car stalled out on me and then it would start back up but immediately die. Apparently I had forgotten to tighten one of my clamps all the way and blew the pipe out of it. The MAF was reading a certain amount of air but that air wasn't making it into the engine so the engine was running too rich and stalling out.
Thanks for everyones input! Ill look over my charge pipes here when it stops raining!!!
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Anthony



kc03spec-v wrote:
Give me a call, we will figure it out dude!
Yeah I think its narrowed down to the MAF sensor, I still have a throttle percentage on my display on the SAFC, its weird cause sometimes when I go to start it, its in limp mode, then other times the SES light is just on but its not in limp mode. WTF? Its decieving, cause as soon as I start to try to drive it off to get the codes read, it shuts off and then wont start up.
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Anthony



I dropped my car off at nissan yesterday for shits and giggles to see what they thought was the problem, well I got a call today and the guy said that the throttle valve is bad along with the APP sensor, his quoted price..... 775$ for the throttle body assemble, and 84$ for the APP sensor. LOL I did my research and even a new OEM throttle body is 592$. Damn, why do they think everyone is so stupid. Are the factory throttle bodies just that shitty? This will be my 3rd one on this car!!!!!
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