strange things while street tunning

nightrider45 · 2008-08-06 19:10:26

so day, i was street tunning my car for about 1hr or so and i cant seem to get my afr steady at to 13.5. before you guy start bashing sayin it's supposed to be 13.1 N/a, yea i know, but i'm tring something out. Anyways. the afr across the board showed between 13.3-13.6 I just cant seem to keep it steady. is it like that with you guys? What i found kind of weird is I did it in 3rd gear, then i wanted to see how 4th gear afr was doing and it was off by a lil bit. I tried it in 2nd gear and same thing happens. I get different afr readings in different gears. is that normal?

donspecv02 · 2008-08-06 19:16:27

How do you have your NE points set up? And what are you trying out btw? The place to test ideal AFR is at the dyno. My car lost power when going above 13:1, just food for thought.

nightrider45 · 2008-08-06 19:28:46

i dont have the NE points memerized but i remember u telling me about losing power after 13.1 but someone in here got dynoed and reflash by JWT and it came out that 13.1 afr was good all the way up to 5500rpms then after that it needed 13.5 to gain hp up to 7k rpms. I guess every car is different especially if your going up to 7k .

donspecv02 · 2008-08-06 19:31:02

nightrider45 wrote:
i dont have the NE points memerized but i remember u telling me about losing power after 13.1 but someone in here got dynoed and reflash by JWT and it came out that 13.1 afr was good all the way up to 5500rpms then after that it needed 13.5 to gain hp up to 7k rpms. I guess every car is different especially if your going up to 7k .

Yes, every car will react different, that's why the dyno is such a good tool for this. We tried tuning for about 13.5 when we were there. It lost power everywhere (even at redline). But I also don't have cams.

donspecv02 · 2008-08-06 19:32:37

You also will want to watch your knock readings on hot days like this. 13.5 could be coming very close to detonation. I taper mine off to 12.9:1 near redline for safety. This also keeps your EGT's lower.

Red_Spec · 2008-08-06 19:32:48

what you are describing is normal for tuning. As far as different gears with slightly different AFR's. at wot you should be able to dial it in to be pretty consistent though.

nightrider45 · 2008-08-06 19:41:40

which gear do you guys tune it in to make it more consistant?

donspecv02 · 2008-08-06 19:42:37

nightrider45 wrote:
which gear do you guys tune it in to make it more consistant?

I tune mine in 3rd gear. I run it all the way from 2500 to redline.

nightrider45 · 2008-08-06 20:06:01

i did the same thing but my afr changes alil when i look at my 4th gear run.
ex. in 3rd gear it will be like 13.5 and if i did it in 4th gear it will jump around from 13.3 to 13.5

donspecv02 · 2008-08-06 20:07:40

Can you find out what NE points you're using? Rearranging what points you're correcting at might help.

nightrider45 · 2008-08-06 20:10:30

iight let me check. brb.

nightrider45 · 2008-08-06 20:22:41

NE 01: 800
NE 02: 2000
NE 03: 3000
NE 04: 3400
NE 05: 3800
NE 06: 4400
NE 07: 4600
NE 08: 5200
NE 09: 5600
NE 10: 6000
NE 11: 6400
NE 12: 6800

I also changed my display scl.
It used to be Now its like this
Pr: 760mmhg Pr: 760mmhg
NE:6200 rpms NE: 7000 rpms
CR: 3% CR: 3%

nightrider45 · 2008-08-07 00:04:10

update: went outside again and changed the NE points and retuned the car back to 13.1 and when it hits 6600-7000, It jumps around a bit between 13.0-13.4. And between 6800-7000 it's 13.4. should i make the NE point of 7k one more notch to positive or should I leave it like that. I cant seem to get a perfect 13.1 line.

RedDragonV09 · 2008-08-07 10:22:33

Its not gonna be the same across the board. especially with the stock ecu. it just wont happen. and if you do get it to stay, it wont stay for long.

nightrider45 · 2008-08-07 23:16:40

iight kool. i've notice that. must be change of weather.

martraykov · 2008-08-07 23:26:25

Do you have your O2 sensors unplugged? If not, why is your NE1 at 800 rpm? You can't fight the ECU in closed loop. Start at 3000 rpm, this way your points will be closer and there will be less fluctuating. The SAFC works like this: If you pull 10 at 3000 and 20 at 4000, then the ECU will pull 15 at 3500. The bigger the interval, the more fluctuating there will be.

nightrider45 · 2008-08-08 15:32:05

the o2 sensor is still pluged in. the reason y i have the 1st NE point at 800 is because i put positive corrections at low throttle so i wont throw the misfiring code at idle in all cylinders from my cams.

Last edited by nightrider45 (2008-08-08 15:33:14)

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