
Jake

DTC P0171 FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM FUNCTION PFP:16600
On Board Diagnosis Logic UBS002BB
With the Air/Fuel Mixture Ratio Self-Learning Control, the actual mixture ratio can be brought closely to the
theoretical mixture ratio based on the mixture ratio feedback signal from the heated oxygen sensor 1. The
ECM calculates the necessary compensation to correct the offset between the actual and the theoretical
ratios.
In case the amount of the compensation value is extremely large (The actual mixture ratio is too lean.), the
ECM judges the condition as the fuel injection system malfunction and light up the MIL (2 trip detection logic).
Here's my situation...(if you have the 2002 Sentra Engine Control (EC) manual, this issue is between pages 1430-1435.)
Got an 02 SE-R Auto
-Nismo Exhaust
-CAI
- Helix TBS Spacer
-Headers
-MMI's
-NGK Itatium IV's
Went to go and get my car inspected and it failed emissions because of this issue that I have been having for the past month and I can't seem to figure it out. After reading the above description, it sounds like a fuel injector is not spraying correctly. Yet if you look in the manual it says it could be 7 different issues....
1. Intake air leaks (checked, I have none)
2. Post O2 Sensor (maybe, since I have megan headers but doubtful)
3. Injectors (dunno haven't tested them)
4. Exhaust Air Leaks (checked, I have none)
5. Incorrect Fuel Pressure (hooked up a gauge, it's running perfectly fine and is in spec)
6. MAF (Just put one in a year ago, usually when they go bad the car runs like shit, mine isn't running bad at all)
7. Incorrect PCV hose (this I have a question on...see below)
As far as the PCV hose goes, isn't there one that connections from the block of the engine to the intake's air duct? I've seen it before and actually just removed the hose because from what I hear, the hose actually dumps oil into your air intake, and why in the hell would I want that? Also the Nismo CAI doesn't have this small of the connection. It has another larger PCV hose that is shorter and connections to the headers block, yet besides that I dunno.
I'm really just trying to figure this out. I've checked everything that I can think of besides going out and buying all new fuel injectors. Does anyone have any suggestions?!?!
Last edited by nachtfrau (2008-11-01 13:09:20)
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Jake

Any help would be greatly appreciated 
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Jake

Bumpage...
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Jake


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Nerbsickle WannaBe





Well:
1: You need that PCV hose, but that shouldnt be your problem.
2: How long ago did you install your TBS?
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Mike



pcv would have nothing to do with it. i had nothing there when i was boosted nor do i right now
i would place bets on the o2 sensor if i had to guess
Last edited by 02NismoSpecV (2008-09-01 17:27:26)
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Eric



Have you tried resetting the ECU?

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Jake

TBS has been on for over a year. And let me take a pic of that PCV hose I'm talking about for you and I'll post it up in a sec...
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Jake

eric02SpecV wrote:
Have you tried resetting the ECU?
5 Times, and the problem keeps coming back...
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Eric



How are you resetting it?

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Nerbsickle WannaBe





For starters make sure your TBS is on the right way, I know when my brother installed his TBS he had it reversed and it threw a mess of weird codes.
Also where did you get your MAF from?
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Jake

OBDII, and also did it using the manual's way as well....(turn the key 5 times....)
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Nerbsickle WannaBe





I think its with your header. What kind do you have? Midpipe? Cause the heated 02 Sensor is located in the midpipe.
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Jake

I think they are Megan headers yet they where on there when I bought the car so not sure. No branding on them... I'm going to remount my TBS, check the intake again, and take some pics really quick of that PCV hose I'm talking about.
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Nerbsickle WannaBe





Deff make sure the TBS is the correct way.
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Nerbsickle WannaBe





Wow, im looking at the FSM right now and i didnt see that you posted that nissan says that the PCV hose could be a problem. Try that first and see what that does.
Its a little difficult to understand what the problem is from your post. But one thing i learned from the FSM is that this Code means that the mixture is LEAN, there is a seperate code for Rich. I would first connect the hose, then I would check each injector to make sure they are working.
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Jake

Aight here's the hose that I was confused about. I was cleaning up the engine bay a month ago and noticed this hose just chillin not connected to anything. So I cut so it wouldn't be in the way and tied it off with a clamp as you can see in the picture below. As I said, this hose wasn't connect to anything so I wouldn't think that this would be the issue yet does anyone know where this hose goes? Did it connect to the stock air intake at one time?
Here's my TBS. It's on the right way because it has an arrow inside that points toward the intake displaying which way the air is support to flow through the spacer and into the intake manifold.
Here's the hose that comes off of the air intake and connects to the top of the header. This has always been there and connected. I think this is what your talking about WannaBe?
This is just a picture of the headers connecting to the manifold. There don't seem to be any gaps between the headers/gasket/block.
Lastly this is what my entire exhaust looks like. Really clean with little to no rust. Whether it's the connection to the mid-pipe or any other piping, it all looks just like this with no holes...
As far as testing the injectors, how would you even do that? Take the intake manifold off, then the fuel rail along with the injectors and try to turn over the car to see if any of them spray un-evenly? I was getting a mis-fire code a couple of times before I got this code. Damn it I hate these issues...
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Nerbsickle WannaBe





Yeah, you need to take the intake manifold off, then disconnect the manifold. Then pull the rail out and the injectors with it. Unplug the power to three of the 4 injectors, and each time take the injector and put it into a bowl and have someone put the car in the ON position DONT TURN OVER, the ON position will prime the fuel pump and fire the injector a little. If it shoots then it works, try until you find one that doesnt fire.
That first pic, take a further out view I wanna see exactly where that is, and what it is. I think that connects to your throttle body.
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Jake

I've never gone that far down as far as tearing engine apart but I guess that is what I'll have to do. I'll grab another gasket tomorrow before I begin and just get an early jump on it. Yet when the fuel pump primes the injector, I thought the injectors needed to be charged in order to fire fuel out of them. So I'm assuming with the electronic plug hooked up to it, it will fire fuel out? I just didn't know whether or not fuel would come out of the injectors if the car wasn't actually turned over. So it will actually shoot a little bit of gas out of the injectors even though the car isn't being turned over completely?
And if you could try to give me an idea as to where that hose would/should go to that would be great as well
Your thinking the TB? How so?
Here are those pictures you asked for....

Last edited by nachtfrau (2008-09-01 19:10:28)
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gennady gurov







one way to diagnose this would be to hook up a real obd2 reader to it and figure out what the fuel trims are... and then attempt to figure out if the o2 sensor is bad or if one of the injectors is malfunctioning.
you can actually listen to the injectors if you get one of those stethoscopes and listen to each injector, you should be able to hear them click identically

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Eric



Or if you don't have a stethescope, you can use a screwdriver and put your ear to the end of the handle. Trust me it works!
And put the tip of the screwdriver on what you want to listen to.
Last edited by eric02SpecV (2008-09-01 19:39:08)

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Mike



there is a vacuum hose that goes onto the back of the throttle body or intake manifold right after the tb which is what i think is the one u pictured thats not connected. the port if you wanna call it that aims towards the ground that is supposed to be connected to the line.
is the line coming from like behind the intake manifold/throttle body?
edit: from the looks of it that looks like where its supposed to go so i try that before anything else
Last edited by 02NismoSpecV (2008-09-01 19:58:24)
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Nerbsickle WannaBe





^ Thats what I thought it was. When I took my IM off to paint it, it took me about 30 minutes to find where that hose went to. I bet that thats your problem.
If your gonna do the thing where you take the injectors off, then you want to leave the electric plug only on the one your testing, if it shoots then your good. But i recommend doing what the others said, especially if your not too familiar with the stuff required to take it off. I enjoy taking stuff apart to see how it works, so for me I would take it apart, but you may not want to.
Im gonna take some pics tomorrow after I get home from work, ill show you where I think it goes. But if you wanna look, check where the fuel lines come out from under the firewall.There should be a bracket that is back there with three hoses (i think) check and see if it is all connected.
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umm that hose from the picture looks rather samll and it if its ot the tranny breather as it is an auto it shoud be connected to a brass fiting on the bottom of the intake manifold just after the tb.
this would cause a vacumm leak enough to throw a code but no enough to shut the car off. feel around for a brass nipple maybe take a mirrior an dlok for it
Last edited by dread1 (2008-09-01 22:36:53)

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Jake

dread1 wrote:
umm that hose from the picture looks rather samll and it if its ot the tranny breather as it is an auto it shoud be connected to a brass fiting on the bottom of the intake manifold just after the tb.
this would cause a vacumm leak enough to throw a code but no enough to shut the car off. feel around for a brass nipple maybe take a mirrior an dlok for it
The hose is small because I cut it off so it'd be out of the way. The hose was long enough to go to the top of the TB and even hit the firewall if you stretched it. It wasn't connected so I'd figured it didn't need to be connected in the first place (oops). The car runs great, just throwing this PO code.
I'll check the TB and the firewall to see if I can see where this hose goes. I'll have to run and grab some more tubing from the depot or whatever because I cut the hose and threw the other part away thinking I didn't need it. I'm really hoping this is it but I really won't know if that fixed the issue until... 1. I find out where the freakin hose goes 2. I drive it around a lot to see if the code comes back on after clearing the ECU.
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Jake

02NismoSpecV wrote:
there is a vacuum hose that goes onto the back of the throttle body or intake manifold right after the tb which is what i think is the one u pictured thats not connected. the port if you wanna call it that aims towards the ground that is supposed to be connected to the line.
is the line coming from like behind the intake manifold/throttle body?
edit: from the looks of it that looks like where its supposed to go so i try that before anything else
Well I have 2 hoses shown. The bigger one (3 inches in diameter) that goes from the CAI to the header/block. Then another smaller hose (maybe 1/2 inch in diameter) that was disconnected and has been since I bought the car over a year ago. I just found this hose chillin when I was cleaning up the engine bay about a month ago, cut the hose down to size and left a small piece on there just so dirt and crap wouldn't get into the nipple.
Before this car I had a Saturn SC2 that had the same deal with the 2 hoses. 1 hose (the larger one) connected to the CAI just after the MAF to the header/block, and the other (smaller one) connected to the intake as well after the MAF, and to the header/block. I remember when I removed the hose before, it smelled like oil. I was told at one point that the hose served a purpose (can't remember what) but it dumped a little bit of oil into the air intake for whatever reason.
I'm not certain if this is the same case with Nissan's yet the hose was connected to something at one point, and obviously serves a purpose, just don't know what. It can't go the CAI because there is only 1 hose connection and that is for the larger hose, not the smaller one. So ya I'm confused...
Last edited by nachtfrau (2008-09-02 01:08:04)
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not the same that if tis the rigth hose i'm thinkign of an dnot the brather to the tranny(which its auto so it shoudln't be) you then need to quire another hose since you cut it an reatch it. This would cause a vac leak an maybe just enough to throw a code.

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Jake

I looked all throughout the engine bay and I can't find where this hose goes. There isn't any open ports/valves anywhere near the hoses location at the tranny or near the TB assembly. I've dealt with this guy at my local dealership and he's pretty nice. I called him up and asked him what it was and he didn't know off the top of his head but he said if I brought it in he would look at it and tell me what it was. So I'm going up there soon and going to ask him what is it and if I need to reconnect it I'll grab some new hose and slap it back on and pray that it fixes the issue. I'll let you guys know...
EDIT: BTW Dread do you play CSS?
Last edited by nachtfrau (2008-09-02 13:28:44)
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Jake

Went and talked to my buddy at the dealership, he looked at the hose and said it was NOT a vacuum hose, but an "over-spill/bleeder" hose for the tranny. Essentially it pushes all of the air that isn't support to be in the case out and at one time did attach to the air intake yet isn't needed and won't throw a code, especially the one I'm getting. He said to start with the O2 sensor. So I went and grabbed a universal one, wired it up and screwed it on. Put the car into diagnostic mode and reset the code once again. Drove it around for a bit and the code hasn't come back on yet I have a feeling it might. If it does then shit, I dunno, fuel injector maybe? I'll update in a week or so once I put 200+ miles on with the new O2 sensor. He also said that since I have the aftermarket exhaust that I would also need to put a spacer in the post-O2 sensor if there wasn't already one. The point of the spacer is to trick the ECU into thinking that the pre-O2 is getting the correct air/fuel ratio mixture so the code I"m getting doesn't come up. I looked at the post-O2 and it looks like there is a spacer yet it could just be the threads. Not sure at this point but I'll have to go buy one and take off the post-O2 and see if there is one as well.
Last edited by nachtfrau (2008-09-02 18:36:21)
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Nerbsickle WannaBe





I think the spacer is your problem. Think:
The code says the car is running lean, then it must not be detecting the true exhaust gases. If it has a spacer in order to fool the O2, (the spacer is there to make it think its running more lean, cause without the main cat the 'exhaust' is real rich, hence the fuel smell) and you really dont need a spacer then your O2 would be reading lean, because it is out of stream, but your car could be running fine.
Maybe a more experienced member could check that idea, but thats what im thinking.
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i use to play CSS on the computer haven't had much time for a few months

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Jake

Just wondering dread, my g/f is in TAS and says she has seen you on there before.
Anyhow, put a new O2 sensor in, removed the TBS, and reset the ECU again. So far so good. Have only gone 50 miles but no SES light yet. Hopefully that has fixed the issue. It makes sense that there was too much air and not enough fuel in the mixture because of the TBS yet it's been on for a year and haven't had a problem until now. Odd that it just started to act up all of the sudden. Yet I know of many people who has the WPR TBS and don't have any issues. Guess mine's just anal retentive... Anyhow I'll update once I've driven it a while and the code hasn't come back on.
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Jake

After driving 300+ miles, no SES light! It kinda pisses me off though because I've used this TBS for over a year with no issues and it now just started to cause a problem. So I guess I just can't use it. Kept the new O2 sensor in but it might not of even been the O2 sensor as well, probably just the TBS causing the SES light. Anyhow, thank you very much to everyone who helped! SpecV Wannabe, Eric, thanks again.
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Jake

Ok now I'm pissed. Problem is back again. Threw PO171 today on the way home from work. Thought it was the TBS but it has been out for a month and no issues until today. I'm guessing at this point as to what it could be. Throttle Body Assembly was replaced about a year ago but it was a used one. Any ideas guys?
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i have the same problem, its from the cat-less header. some cars get the code, some don't. my 04 se-r had the ame header amd 20,000 miles with no ses. my 06 has always had it/
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Jake

So solution would be to upgrade to a header with a cat? damn that sucks...
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nachtfrau wrote:
So solution would be to upgrade to a header with a cat? damn that sucks...
no, you don't. it just sucks when you need an inspection, you wont pass with a ses.
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Jake

Big J wrote:
you need that PCV hose, or you need to cap it off on teh valve cover, it's an unmetered air leak.
2 different nissan techs assured me it was not an air or bypass hose. Reset the code, hasn't come back. Guess it's like Joe said, I'll just have to deal with the issue I guess. I hope it doesn't come on during inspection times.
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if it does, pm me...the ecu needs to cycle itself for a while, even though they cleared the code, it will show up on an obd2 until you put about 75-100 miles on after erasing. i had to deal with this last year, its a pain in the a--
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Jake

Aight new data to add in the pool. I've cleared the code 3 times it's come back consistently within 30-50 miles. Also I had my car off all day on Saturday. Went to go start it Saturday night and it wouldn't start. The starter turned the engine over but it wouldn't start. You could def tell the car wasn't getting fuel. Now here's where I'm confused and correct me gentlemen if I'm wrong but
1. When you turn your key to the "ON" position the battery kicks in and starts the fuel pump which in turn pumps the gas to the engine. So if the car wouldn't start at all I'd say fuel pump to start with right?
2. However the car did start after I turned it on probably 3 or 4 times and pumped the gas pedal a bit. It struggled to start but started. I immediately turned the car off and let it sit for 15-20 seconds then tried it again. Sure enough it fired right up!
The car drives perfectly fine. Drove all over that night and Sunday as well. Then sat over night until I went to work today, and started up just fine. It's hit or miss with this. Now if it was a fuel pump wouldn't I notice other issues? Car struggling if I slammed on a gas because the injectors weren't getting enough fuel? This makes me think that it's the first fuel injector (all the way to the left if your starring at the engine bay) that is causing this issue. Would the car start if 1 injector wasn't working properly? (i.e. poor spray) I haven't gotten any misfire codes, just still continue to get PO171.
Last edited by nachtfrau (2008-10-13 19:54:20)
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check the code to be sure, i know my code is p something, and ends in 101, and its bank 1, range sensor 1,,,you probably have it from your catless header
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Jake

I'm positive it's PO171. Checked it by hooking up an OBDII sensor, and going through the manual way via SES blinks. After many nights of frustration and being pissed off, I decided to say screw it and pay the $85 for a diagnostic at the dealership. Got my appointment in 2 weeks, I'll update and let you guys know what they say...
Last edited by nachtfrau (2008-10-20 20:02:30)
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Marc
