Heck of a write-up. But if I may add some diagrams from the FSM for removal/installation of the lower oil pan for those "by the book" people out there.

wow, nice.

Nambito wrote:

Why didnt you buy the Jim Wolf Technology Kit for 80 bucks. It includes baffles so the oil will actually flow a lot better to your crank. Also aren't you supposed to remove the balance shafts when you do that? Or do people generally just leave them in?

Unless you have the JWT kit you need to leave them in. You will need 1.5 more quarts of oil, which will just bake at the bottom of the pan, and you'll starve the crank when you go around corners. The bsr kit makes the oil flow better so you can take corners better and lose the 20lb mass of the balance shafts.

You are supposed to remove the chain tensioner though.

thetuna wrote:

Nambito wrote:

Why didnt you buy the Jim Wolf Technology Kit for 80 bucks. It includes baffles so the oil will actually flow a lot better to your crank. Also aren't you supposed to remove the balance shafts when you do that? Or do people generally just leave them in?

Unless you have the JWT kit you need to leave them in. You will need 1.5 more quarts of oil, which will just bake at the bottom of the pan, and you'll starve the crank when you go around corners. The bsr kit makes the oil flow better so you can take corners better and lose the 20lb mass of the balance shafts.

You are supposed to remove the chain tensioner though.

so its better to have JWT kit? or its doesn't matter

I personally don't think the JWT kit is worth a frickin dime. It's not really changing anything other than removing the dead weight. I can do that myself when I want.

Yes, definately a notice in power and in gas mileage. I'm getting (seriously) about 2 more mpg.

Also, vibrations for me with MMIs are pretty harsh (IMO) around 3200-3800. Definately livable and not noticable anywhere else. Under power you don't notice it.

I also routinely drive in that RPM in 6th gear so I notice it a lot. I'm very sensitive to changes in my car.

yeah im gonna do this very soon. why is it that always we must wear white t-shirts when working on our cars and they always get fucked up haha

Thanks for the props. White t-shirts. Comfortable. Come in a 6 pack. $5. And they go with anything. lol.

White t-shirts a hot rod tradition since the begining of it all.

he told me mainly between 3200-3800k thats the only place u really notice it, and under full throttle u dont even notice it there

Thanks for the answer man, that's the one thing that has kept me from doing it so far.

evil_twin wrote:

Whats PN on that offset wrench that you have from Snap On?

What?

what bolt is that snapped in half? how did you get the other end out? and where did you get the rtv (the quick dry stuff)? if you answered any of those questions above, sorry. but i appreciate the help.

Me and Jeremy did ours and it wasn't very hard at all. When it comes to shit inside the engine I'm paranoid as fuck lol but it wasn't that bad.

Honestly, the only vibrations I feel is a little more at idle and braking. I did 80-85 the whole way home and didn't feel any vibrations.

We looked at a few stores for that RTV but couldn't find it. We then went to the dealer and got the RTV they had which is red. It's working so far.

where to buy jwt kit?

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/custom … PartID=432

I am still debating whether I should do this or get the JWT Kit.

Well if I get the kit I'm gonna go up to Viet's shop to get it done.

QR25DECHIC wrote:

i think this is going to be my next mod...i've heard the jwt kit is worthless for the most part..so i'm gonna go with cutting the chain. thanks for such a great write up..this is going to help a ton when i go to do it...

i won't wear a white shirt though.

who the hell told you the kit is worthless?? thats bull, the kit gives you weight reduction and more oil capacity, cutting the chain is for lazy people, or people like me who can't get the god damn balance shaft assembly out

Tweek wrote:

QR25DECHIC wrote:

i think this is going to be my next mod...i've heard the jwt kit is worthless for the most part..so i'm gonna go with cutting the chain. thanks for such a great write up..this is going to help a ton when i go to do it...

i won't wear a white shirt though.

who the hell told you the kit is worthless?? thats bull, the kit gives you weight reduction and more oil capacity, cutting the chain is for lazy people, or people like me who can't get the god damn balance shaft assembly out

I said it many time in this thread. I've said it many times as to why I dislike the kit, but I will say it again.

Adds oil
Yea well, people with the kit are having the same problems as people without the kit. The starvation around the side of the crank. Maybe you're thinking the engine can splash more oil to better lubricate. From what I saw, the connecting rods don't even go down that far, so splashing will be pretty non-existant. So the added oil is just added weight.

Less weight
Take out the 30 empty bottles of mountain dew and you saved the same amount of weight. Plus with the kit still inside it displaces the oil in the engine to make sure it is able to move around. With the kit you're adding oil to get it back to the same level as with the b/s still in there.

And it's 100 bucks for that thing. I'd like to have it, sure, but I can keep the 100, get the same benefits, and not be all pissed off about how incredibly hard it is to remove the b/s.


So, in my eyes, working on engines for over 6 years, this kit is worthless.

cpuslave wrote:

I don't understand why this chain needs to be removed though? What is its purpose?

hehehe newb question.

but the chain is run by the crank and consequently causes parasitic loss. by cutting the chain you free up about 8hp. additionally it can be thought to be a safety mod for the engine. the bs spins at 2x the speed of the engine and the possibility of failure is high. by cutting the chain (and consequently removing it) you free up power and improve reliability.

Do whatever option makes you happy.  Cutting the chain gives you the same power gains as doing the JWT kit.  Cutting the chain is most obviously easier, but the JWT kit's difficulty is highly exaggerated.  The hardest part is removing the upper tensioner bolt.  After that, it's a piece of cake.  I did the full kit on my car without any problems/ill effects.  I'm trying to remove all the weight I can out of my car so losing the 15-20 lbs of the balancer assembly was preferable to me.  Having extra oil can never hurt on the track either.

Interesting. Yeah I know it's a 'newb' question or whatever, but hey I'm just trying to learn. I have an 01 GXE(QG18DE, 1.8), any idea if this chain is on my engine?

the chain does not have a master link its designed to be put on with th front cover off and goes on like doing a timing chain
also just wondering if there is enough room in there to get a cutoff wheel in to cut the chain instead of boltcutters

Last edited by 06chill (2008-01-29 00:03:36)